Inis Wines, based in Donegal, was set up five years ago by Liam and Alice Sweeney. Son Michael, based in Dublin, has now joined the business. They are obviously very much in love with their product, and have a well-chosen range of wines, mainly French. I was very impressed by their Sancerre. Both the 2005 and 2006 vintages are great for Loire Sauvignon, and this is a perfect example.

Moving on, the Wicklow Wine Co has one of the very best ranges of German wines in the country. The delicate wines of von Richter in the Mosel Valley are extraordinary. From the least expensive upwards, all had a brilliant balance of fresh fruit and mineral acidity. The sweet wines were sublime, scoring 17 to 18 points out of 20. The French range is eclectic and interesting too. Domaine Tunnel, based in the northern Rhone, make a small range of very enjoyable wines. The Saint Joseph was my pick of the bunch. Wicklow Wine have a small shop in the town itself, but also distribute nationwide to independent retailers.

I could have chosen of the wines on show from the Domaine de la Citadelle; red and white, they all show real southern character and style. The Gouverneur St Aubin, their top cuvee, gives a magnificent blast of hugely concentrated complex flavours. It is not a wine to knock back whilst watching television . . . this requires food, and plenty of it, to show at its very best.

speed at which they delivered dishes to the tables.

After a lengthy yet suitable wait, we were given dessert menus. Across the top of the menu in large, bold letters, the words 'Home Made Desserts' caught my eye. Usually Asian/Chinese restaurants buy in their desserts, so I inquired of the manager who was then serving us whether they were in fact home-made. His answer, after a protracted pause and much rolling of eyes and sucking in of breath was, "No, we buy in our desserts. . ." I had lemon cheesecake and Chef had the unforgettably named tarta fantastica, neither impressed so we moved quickly on to coffees.

When the bill came, I winced at the extra amount we'd been charged for the fried rice: 4 each.

Okay it's not a huge amount and we hadn't asked specifically whether or not rice was extra, but when you're paying 18 or 20 per main, outside the city centre, I don't think it's reasonable to charge 4 extra per portion of rice, that's my opinion.

Just to make sure I hadn't picked him up wrong, I called the restaurant a couple of days later and asked why it said "Home Made Desserts" on the menu even though they were bought-in, "Misprint!" came the reply, "Do you not think that's misleading?"

"No, it's just a small thing, nobody asks so it doesn't matter! Goodbye. . ." I rather thought it did matter, if you're going to advertise something as home-made, then it damn well should be home-made. I did like Mandalay, but a pork pie on the dessert menu isn't very appetising and an extra 8 for two bowls of rice left a vaguely bitter after-taste.

THE BILL 1 De Bortoli Windy Peak Riesling 25.00 1 Thai Lamb Strips 10.00 1 Salt and Chilli Ribs 8.00 1 Kerabu Prawn 20.00 1 Chi Chi Chicken 18.00 2 Fried Rice 8.00 1 Lemon Cheesecake 6.00 1 Tarta Fantastica 5.00 2 Coffee 6.00 TOTAL 106.00 MANDALAY Northwood, Santry Demesne Dublin 9 Telephone: 01 8428716 Sancerre, Chateau de Maimbray 2005 Description The lifted nose of nettles and ripe pears leads on to a rich, complex palate of green fruits, with a lovely richness, and a long dry finish. Delicious.

Available from 18.99-19.99 from Caprani's Ashford; Thomas's Foxrock; D Six Harold's Cross; Jus de Vine Portmarnock; Bin No 9 Goatstown; Mortons of Galway; Foodhall Portlaoise; Importer: Inis Wines.

Drink with A leafy green salad topped with a generous slice of mild goat's cheese would be perfect.

14/20 Graacher Dompropst Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel 2006 Description "Light, delicate and pure" said the tasting sheet and so it is. Wonderful floral aromas, the palate a perfect balance of fresh apples, honey and lemon.

Available from 18.95 from Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street;

On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Red Island Wine Company, Skerries;

Probus wines, Oughterard; The importer is Wicklow Wine Drink with cold baked ham is a good neutral background.

15/20 Saint Joseph, Domaine du Tunnel, 2005 Available from 25 from Wicklow Wine Co; Listons, Camden Street; Red Island Wine Company, Skerries;

Probus wines, Oughterard;

French Flair, Tralee; Hand Made Wines, Lismore; Partidges, Gorey.

Drink with Grilled breast of duck with chips, and a red wine sauce.

15.5/20 Description Not a showy wine, but beautifully crafted, offering up delicious pure plum, liquorice fruits and good length.

Cotes de Luberon, Domaine de la Citadelle "Gouverneur St Auban" 2003 Description An explosion of flavours . . . a dense mass of ripe blackcurrants.

Drink with Don't even think about popping the cork unless you have a large slab of premium striploin steak on the barbeque.

16/20 Available from The retail price is 26. You could try it in Ely Wine Bar or L'Ecrivain; failing that call the importer, Tyrrell & Co, 045870882.