The premises was opened in 1977 by Frank Searson, now retired, one of the most respected names in the Irish wine business. His son Charles has now taken over the business. Searsons made their name with Bordeaux. Long before most other wine merchants began the practice, they offered the great wines en primeur each year. Even today, they can be relied on to have a mouth-watering range of well-chosen clarets from impeccable sources, and not just at the top end either.

France and Spain have always been very well-represented. My current favourites include three crisp dry whites . . .the Berticot sauvignon ( 9.75), the wonderful Ch Freynelle ( 12.50) and the Domaine des Malandes Chablis 1er cru vau de Vey 2005 ( 21). In recent years, the buying team has branched out into Italy and the new world with huge success. In Italy, look out for the names Zenato (Veneto), Terradavino (Piedmont) and the Chiantis of Fonterutoli. Favourites in the new world include Luigi Bosca of Argentina . . . the Viognier ( 9.75) is textbook stuff, and the Gala I ( 22.50) is my favourite Argentine red. Australia also offers real interest now, as does New Zealand. Lastly, sticky-lovers will find one of the very best selections of sweet wines in the country.

In order to survive, a wine merchant must be able to offer something the supermarket cannot . . . a better range of wines, intelligent advice, and an ability to lead the customer on to new and exciting discoveries. On all counts, Searsons delivers.

Springfield Estate Life from Stone, Robinson, South Africa, 2006 Description Probably the best sauvignon South Africa produces. A quite brilliant fresh racy, zesty sauvignon bursting with crisp gooseberry and green fruits. Bracing stuff.

Available from 16.75 in Searsons, Monkstown; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Power & Smullen, Lucan; Macs, Limerick.

Drink with A leafy green salad, topped with goat's cheese.

115/20

Domaine Mabileau, St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Les Roullieres, 2005

Description A delicious light wine with a fragrance of raspberries, and crunchy summer fruits.

Available from 14.50 from Searsons, Monkstown; Fallon & Byrne, Wicklow St; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries; Redmonds, Ranelagh.

Drink with Rilettes of pork, a kind of rich pate, served with toast. Use the freshness to cut through something fatty.

115/20

Palha Canas, Casa Santos Lima, Estremadura, Portugal 2005

Description A must-try that could get you hooked on Portugese wine. A seductive smooth mouthful of tangy summer fruits sprinkled with spice.

Available from 12.00 in Searsons, Monkstown; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries; Power & Smullen, Lucan; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Jaynes Off-licence, Ennis; James O'Keeffe, Ennis DDrink with Mushroom risotto.

113/20

Ch HautBeausejour, Cru Bourgeois, St Estephe, 1998

Drink with Roast lamb.

16.5/20

Description Classic and correct mature claret with a wonderful soft red fruits and a cool streak of black peppers, finishing on a slightly dry note.

Available from 25.00 from Searsons, Monkstown; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; On The Grapevine, Booterstown;

Gibneys Off-Licence, Malahide.