The counters of Country Choice groan with locally sourced meat, cheeses galore and shop-made jams. Do not miss the single-estate organic mountain Parmesan from Nevviano. On visits, I've feasted on quince jelly (from the earl of Rosses' estate in Birr) and that most delcious dessert, Queen of Puddings. There are also preserved fruits from Spain and olive oil from Italy and Provence.

Peter would be the first to admit he is not an expert in wine. Yet he has amassed a collection that beats most specialists. It is all about sniffing out the right sources and being prepared to be different. Some come directly from producers, some from a handpicked group of importers.

Like many smaller outlets, the focus is on European wines . . . they are more easilysourced and tend to be more human in size than their new-world counterparts.

This is not a disadvantage; you can expect some very quirky, interesting wines. The carbon footprint is also much lighter.

Country Choice imports directly from the producer, including the excellent biodynamic Champagne Veuve Fourny (also available in Terroirs, Donnybrook) and wines from Provence, the Languedoc and Beaujolais. His Beaujolais Rose featured here a few weeks back. The red version is a great lunchtime wine, served lightly chilled, and the Languedoc and province wines offer great value. This summer, he expects the trend towards sparkling wine to continue and has some Cremant de Loire and Prosecco at hand.

Country Choice,25 Kenyon Street, Nenagh, Co Tipperary

Chateau Virant Blanc Tradition, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence 2006
Description A distinctive dry wine with lovely pure melon fruits that sit perfectly with the light minerals and grapefruit zest.
Available from 13.49 exclusively from Country Choice DDrink with Fish mousse with green salad and focaccia.
11.25/20

Domaine Clos Massotte, Gaia, Cotes du Roussillon 2004
Description Powerful and big with hedonistic concentrated dark fruits and a svelte, rounded, long finish. Very seductive wine.
Available from 13.49 from Country Choice
Drink with The classic Country Choice lunch on a Saturday . . . prime Hereford burger with onion relish, garlic roast garlic spuds.
11.4/20

Domaine des Aspras, Cotes de Provence Cuvee Tradition 2005
Description An organic Syrah/ Grenache blend with smooth ripe plum fruits. A delicious, easy-drinking all-rounder.
Available from 13.49 exclusively from Country Choice
Drink with A rustic picnic of freerange pork terrine with calvados and garlic, served with redcurrant jelly and brown bread.
11.35/20

Martin Berdugo Ribera del Duero Joven 2005
Description Gorgeous ripe, bouncy plum fruits that slip down all too easily . . . but packs a bit of punch too.
Available from widely available at 11.99 from independent wineshops including Country Choice; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Fallon & Byrne; Michael's Wines, Mount Merrion; McCambridges, Galway.
Drink with Barbecued steak, roast vegetables and aioli.

11.4/20