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WINE IN THE WALL
WINE JOHN WILSON



IT IS a brilliant concept - a pub, wineshop and restaurant, one after the other in three adjoining rooms - this is the longest pub in Europe. One day, I intend starting at one end with a nice creamy pint as an aperitif, move into the next room to select a bottle of wine, and bring it in to the restaurant where I can drink it for a very reasonable corkage charge of Euro10. Follow with a stroll in Phoenix Park, and I have the makings of a great afternoon.

The Hole in the Wall is some 86 metres in length, and boasts no less than six different bars, each done up in a different style. The restaurant has garnered a great reputation locally, and being on the edge of Phoenix park, is very popular for Sunday lunch. But back to the wine-shop;

the essentials are all there - a great range of interesting wines from all of the key wine importers; the selection is made by manager Stephane, formerly of Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. But what makes The Hole in the Wall special is their range of Australian wines. Euro for euro, Tim Adams makes my favourite wines in Australia. You can get some of his range in selected Tesco outlets (although as several readers have complained, they are not in every store). Working through his agent in the UK, Martin McCaffrey not only imports the remaining Tim Adams wines that Tesco do not stock, but also a brilliant range of Australia's finest wines.

New contacts in Spain mean that there will shortly be an exciting range imported directly from that country. There are regular very casual wine tastings (a snip at Euro10 a head) conducted by wine writer Matthew Nugent, a man who cuts through any pretentiousness very quickly. This is a shop that offers a great range for local residents, but is also worth a detour for those with a love of wine.

TTHE HOLE IN THE WALL Blackhorse Avenue Dublin 7 01 838 9491 Lombeline Beaune 2005 DDescription: A delightful aromatic nose, followed by a very attractive, lightly creamy palate of dark cherries and summer fruits. There is a lovely peak of acidity to give it a bit of life, and the finish is great for a wine at this price.

AAvailable from: Euro21.99 from The Hole in the Wall, McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Redmonds, Ranelagh DDrink with: Pork chops with a creamy mushroom sauce.

115/20 Primo Estate Colombard Sauvignon 2006 DDescription: An unusual blend, of the kind you would find in Gascony. The wine is fresh and zippy with melons and a lovely citrus edge.

AAvailable from: Euro12.99 from The Hole in the Wall DDrink with: Pasta with a freshly made pesto.

112/20 Rockford BasketPress Shiraz 2002 DDescription: One of the great icons of the Barossa, this is a complex, big rounded wine with earthy ripe plums and forest fruits. Being a 2002, it also has great concentration, length, and even some elegance too.

AAvailable from: Euro32.99 from The Hole in the Wall DDrink with: Barbequed beef with a herby salsa would be perfect.

117/20 Tim Adams Pinot Gris Clare Valley 2006 DDescription: Very stylish wine;

delicious juicy melon fruits, with classic Clare Valley lime, and a lovely ripeness throughout.

AAvailable from: Euro16.99 from The Hole in the Wall DDrink with: Great with Chinese and Thai food; fragrant prawns with coriander and lemongrass.

116/20




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