There is an excellent selection of cheeses, breads and other deli treats, all chosen by a man who knows his vialone from his carnoroli. Many of the cheeses are local and difficult to obtain elsewhere.

The selection is different, reflecting Doorley's own tastes. "'Handmade' is a relative term, " he says, "but virtually all my wines are from small producers who put their reputations on the line when they put the stuff in a bottle.

"People come here for something interesting, so they know that 15 to 25 is where to look. So much so that cheaper wines can suffer." He believes the Irish wine-drinker is moving away from newworld wines, which have too much oak and alcohol, and returning to the more varied and subtle flavours of Europe.

"France in general is so under-rated. You get can get fantastic white Burgundy at bargain prices from the Maconnais. Bergerac gives Bordeaux a real kicking in value terms. I love the wild flavours of Portugese wine and Spain offers the most exciting cheap wines on the market. Italian wines are for people who love wine with food."

"I have a particular palate, " he says.

"It's not going to suit everybody's taste but I think I recognise quality and character. There are thousands of wines out there. I just want to make it easier for people to choose and to experiment."

Hand Made, Lismore, Co Waterford, Tel 058-53688 (nationwide delivery) Berry Brothers & Rudd are hosting a Ch PichonLougueville-Lalande dinner on 28 June. Eight wines will be served, including five vintages of the great wine itself. Tickets (/285) can be reserved on 01-677 3444.

Nosiola, Fratelli Endrizzi, Trentino, Italy 2005 DDescription: The grape variety was new to me but the wine was good with plump ripe pears, a touch of nuts and a dry finish.

Available from: 12.95 from Power & Smullen, Lucan;

Wicklow Wine Company; Red Island Wine, Skerries; Hand Made, Lismore; 64 Wines, Glasthule; Berry Brothers and Rudd; Partridges, Gorey.

Drink with: mixed antipasti and crostini with tomato and basil.

112.5/20

Sa de Baixo, Douro, Portugal 2003

Description: A more elegant style of Douro, with chocolate, damsons and a herby note, finishing smoothly.

Available from: 9.99 from Wicklow Wine Company; Hand Made, Lismore; Power & Smullen, Lucan; Red Island Wine Company, Skerries; Redmond's Off-Licence, Ranelagh;

Probus Wines, Oughterard.

Drink with: Boiled ham in parsley sauce with floury spuds on the side.

112/20

Morrelino di Scansano Serpaia, Tuscany, Italy 2005

Description: Elegant soft ripe cherries with an easy texture and some light drying tannins coming through on the finish.

Available from: 14.95 from Power & Smullen, Lucan;

Wicklow Wine Company; Red Island Wine, Skerries; Hand Made, Lismore; 64 Wines, Glasthule; Berry Brothers and Rudd; Partridges, Gorey.

Drink with: Fegato alla Veneziana . . . calves liver with onions.

113.5/20

The Blend of Poggiotondo, IGT Tuscany, Italy 2004

Description: The label is quite extraordinary but this blend of native Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah works very nicely, with rounded plum fruits and a piquant kick to add interest.

Available from: 11.90 from Hand Made, Lismore.

Drink with: A good all-rounder; try it with grilled chicken marinated in rosemary and lemon.

113.5/20