Probably because not very much of it grows in Ireland. The fennel bulbs that can be grown here, mind you, are the best, as they never get very big.

Size does matter when it comes to fennel bulbs, and smaller is better, as they are more tender and less fibrous than larger bulbs.

A good fennel bulb is fairly round in shape and creamy white in colour, and has short green stalks and feathery green leaves on top. Choose clean, crisp bulbs, there should not be any sign of brown spots, yellowing, splitting, or withering: a sign the fennel is old. Its appearance resembles an extra plump bunch of celery, and it has a unique liquorice taste that becomes milder when cooked.

It's great sauteed, braised, in a gratin, or added into a light shellfish stew. It works very well with seafood as well as chicken and pork. It can also be eaten raw and is delicious sliced thinly and added in to salads.

In Ballymaloe we make a wonderful salad of fennel bulb with red onion, great for serving with rough pork pates and terrines. Just make a dressing with one tablespoon of sherry or balsamic vinegar and two tablespoons of olive oil. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Slice a few small fennel bulbs and one small red onion very thinly, drizzle with the dressing, and some chopped fennel, add the herb, season to taste and serve.

When Rick Stein taught at the Ballymaloe Cookery School a couple of years ago he made a wonderful Fennel Mayonnaise to serve with seafood, such as freshly cooked prawns. Just add half to one tablespoon of Pernod and two tablespoons of finely chopped fennel bulb to a cup of homemade mayonnaise.

FENNEL AND LEEK SOUP WITH GARLIC CROUTONS
Serves 4-6

15g/half oz butter
2 tbsp olive oil
1 bulb of fennel, chopped
1 large leek, chopped
2 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped
400ml/14 fl oz vegetable or chicken stock
400ml/14 fl oz milk
KE salt and black pepper
dash of cream . . . optional

For the croutons 4 tbsp olive oil 2 cloves garlic, finely grated or crushed 3-4 slices of bread Remove any feathery tops from the fennel bulb and set aside to use as a garnish for the soup when serving. Heat the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the chopped fennel, leek and potatoes, turn the heat down, cover and cook gently.

Fennel looks like an extra plump bunch of celery Stir every so often for about eight minutes until the vegetables are almost tender.

Turn up the heat and add the stock.

Bring to a boil and simmer for another few minutes until all the vegetables are very tender. Liquidise the soup until smooth. Return to a gentle heat, add the milk and allow to heat through. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add a dash of cream if you wish.

To make the croutons, trim the crusts from the bread and cut into cubes, about 1cm square. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the garlic, then add the cubed bread to the frying pan and stir often.

Cook the croutons until light golden.

Immediately transfer to a double sheet of kitchen paper on a plate to drain.

Pour the hot soup into warm bowls, garnish with the garlic croutons and any reserved pieces of leafy fennel. Serve.

FENNEL, ASPARAGUS AND RED PEPPER SALAD

This is great with barbecued meat, or served as with cous cous for a light main course.

Serves 4-6

2 red peppers
12 stalks of asparagus
2 small fennel bulbs

For the dressing 2 tbsp lemon juice 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper Preheat the oven to about 230 oC.

First, roast the peppers: using your hands, rub olive oil around the skin of the whole red peppers, place in a roasting tray and roast in the oven for about 30 minutes, turning them halfway through cooking, until they feel soft and are blistered. Transfer to a bowl and cover with cling film.

Leave for a few minutes to cool slightly until the skins start to loosen.

When the peppers are cool enough to handle, skin and deseed the peppers, then slice the flesh into thin strips. Discard the tough outer layer of the fennel bulbs leaving the firm heart. Slice the hearts very thinly, using a mandolin if you have one. Break off the woody ends of the asparagus stalks and discard. Cut off the tips and set aside. Slice the stalks into 5cm slices at an angle.

Bring 2cm of water up to the boil in a saucepan, and place the asparagus tips and stalks into the pan. Cook for just two or three minutes until tender.

Place the fennel, red pepper and asparagus in a wide bowl. Mix the dressing ingredients in a small bowl, then drizzle over the vegetables in the bowl, season to taste and serve.

GRATIN OF FENNEL WITH PARMESAN CHEESE Wedges of fennel, baked until meltingly tender, are topped with cheese for a delicious dish that's great with roasted chicken, pork or fish. Sometimes I place some chopped olives into the dish first.

Serves 4 2 medium bulbs fennel, washed and trimmed 100ml/4fl oz chicken stock 2 tbsp olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper handful finely grated Parmesan cheese Heat the oven to 200 oC. Cut each fennel bulb in half through its core; cut the halves into two or three wedges each.

Snuggle the wedges, cut side up, in a baking dish (about 25x25cm). Pour the chicken stock over the fennel and drizzle with olive oil. Cover the pan with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and sprinkle the wedges with the Parmesan cheese. Continue baking uncovered for another 30 to 45 minutes.

The seeds for growing your own fennel bulbs are available from the Organic Centre Shop, Rossinver, Co Leitrim. You can also partake in one of their organic gardening and cookery courses. See www. theorganiccentre. ie or telephone 071 9854338 for more details.

BOOK OF THE WEEK

Too often vegetables are relegated to mere side order status but a little thought can turn them into a wonderful main event.

Sarah Raven's 'Garden Cookbook' is not vegetarian but it does contain wonderfully creative recipes with vegetables. From savoy cabbage and coriander soup to courgette and lemon salad, you'll never be stuck for inspiration, and there are plenty of more unusual suggestions such as lavender creme brulee and white gazpacho with grapes. Structured according to the seasons, it will make you long to start growing your own.