sunday tribune logo
 
go button spacer This Issue spacer spacer Archive spacer

In This Issue title image
spacer
News   spacer
spacer
spacer
Sport   spacer
spacer
spacer
Business   spacer
spacer
spacer
Property   spacer
spacer
spacer
Tribune Review   spacer
spacer
spacer
Tribune Magazine   spacer
spacer

 

spacer
Tribune Archive
spacer

Doorstep Doctor
Steve Guerin



Whether you are building a house, repairing a broken window, or just need advice onplumbing, renovating, painting or tiling, fret not.

Send in your questions to Steve. . .

QI live in a 1920s house in Dublin. I've had my living room carpeted for many years and recently decided to lift up the carpet and sand the wooden floor. Most of the boards are in good condition but near the door and the window there are a few gaps between the floorboards. They're not massive but I'd like to know if I can somehow fill these in or lift up the boards and replace them. I don't want a new wooden floor as I like the character of the old one. If I have to replace the boards where can I get ones that match? Also who would I get to carry out this job if it needed to be done?

Sally McGuirk

A If there are large gaps between the floorboards then it would be best to glue a thin strip of wood into these. Most builder's merchants and DIY stores have a selection of thin strips that can be used for a variety of tasks. The best thing is to measure the distance between the boards in millimetres and purchase a strip as near to that thickness as is possible. Glue both sides of the strip and force it into the gap. Let the strip set hard and then use a sharp wood chisel and hammer and cut the strip flush with the floorboards. Another method is to mix up some newspaper with some mixed wallpaper paste and force this mixture into the gaps. Make sure that you do not use coloured newspaper in the mix. Fill the gaps flush, let it dry and then sand smooth. If you need to replace any of the floorboards then try to source a good salvage yard in your area or if there are renovation works going on near you then the builders could be throwing out some of the old boards which might match in with your boards.

Q I have had artex on all my ceilings since 1989. I would like to plaster the ceilings but I have been advised that some artex may contain asbestos. Is it possible to check this as asbestos can be a serious problem?

Tony Marisconi

A The levels of asbestos contained in artex decorative coatings is so small that in 2004 testing laboratories that were testing the artex found in the Ballymun flats were not able to measure the actual amounts. If, as you say, you want to replaster the ceilings, I suggest you leave the artex in place and fit 8ft x 4ft x 3/8in plasterboard sheets to the ceiling. Make sure to screw into the ceiling joists with minimum two-inch drywall screws. By screwing the plasterboard to the ceiling joists, it means you do not have to disturb the artex and also you are saving yourself a lot of time, as well as avoiding the mess involved. A two-man team of plasterers will be able to fit the plasterboard and plaster the ceiling in two days. You will probably experience some drying out cracks around the edges of the ceiling but these can be filled with decorator's caulk.

Q We have almost completed renovations on our house and always knew we had problems with the chimneys. They leak and despite having work done on them they continue to do damage to the new plasterwork on the chimney breast. We also put in a solid-fuel stove in the kitchen and after winter I noticed all this damp soot and dirt on the surface behind it. And also on the hearth. Could you suggest a solution please?

Mairead Kennedy

A Firstly let me say that your chimneys should not be leaking after having them repaired. Obviously whoever was repairing them has not done a suf"cient repair or maybe they have repaired sections but have missed out on something else. Common faults with chimneys are the lead "ashings, the chimney cappings and also the brickwork is sometimes perished which lets water into the chimney cavity. Again, without seeing the chimneys, I am working on my own assumptions. If the house is very old it may be prudent to demolish and rebuild the chimneys to the roof level. It might also be possible to cap and plaster the existing chimney. It is best to use a precast concrete capping to the stack and also to use a damp-proof course under the capping. It is also useful to use a metal-tray damp-proof course to stop the rainwater from travelling downards into the building. If you have a digital camera, you could take some photos and email them to me and I will try to advise you further.

Q Can you recommend someone who specialises in repairing gutters on a private residence?

Catriona Coady

A As you have not indicated the county you are living in, why not go onto my website www. tradesmenireland. com and go into the tradesmen search, then click on your county tab where you will see a full list of all tradesmen registered in your area.

WRITE TO US If you have a building-/renovation-related query that you'd like Steve to help you with, email: doorstepdoctor@tribune. ie Steve Guerin is managing director of www. tradesmenireland. com, the one-stop website that will help you find a tradesman, a site for sale, a property to rent or buy and all the plant hire and machinery you need to complete your house build or renovation




Back To Top >>


spacer

 

         
spacer
contact icon Contact
spacer spacer
home icon Home
spacer spacer
search icon Search


advertisment




 

   
  Contact Us spacer Terms & Conditions spacer Copyright Notice spacer 2007 Archive spacer 2006 Archive