Lowe and his wife made a conscious decision to ignore new world wines (except New Zealand) from the off. "When we started out, every other shop seemed to be wall-to-wall Chile and Australia."

Lowe, a former British Steel executive, was fascinated by wine and had pestered every wine merchant on the southside to learn more. They sourced locally at first and then began importing small parcels of wine directly from Italy. As business grew, they began importing food as well . . . pasta, sauces and biscuits. Then one day a wine producer sent them a box of tomatoes with wine delivery. They were so much better than anything available in Dublin so the couple branched out into fresh food. Today, a lorry driver in Milan puts together a collection of wine, then adds cheese, salami, olives, fresh vegetables and fruit from the local market and drives to Mount Merrion where customers can buy a genuinely Italian takeaway or eat-in meal.

Wine is less important than when they first opened but Lowe is determined to keep it going. There is a small selection, mainly Italian but Spain, Portugal and France also feature. Among the directly imported wines, all Italian and all exclusive to Michael's, are some real gems. The majority of sales are between 11.95 and 17.95 . . . at that price you can get something really interesting, Lowe says. Both Michael and Mary share a disarming lack of pretension. "One thing I have learnt is that a little extra money will buy a lot but a lot extra won't necessarily buy anything better, " says Mary.

Michael's, Deepark Road, Mount Merrion, Dublin Terlaner Pinot Grigio 2006, Alto Adige DDescription: Packed with loads of soft fat grapes and melons with plenty of dry length too.

Available from: 15.95 from Michael's, Mount Merrion.

Drink with: lighter salad dishes or as an aperitif. Also great with soft creamy Italian cheeses.

112.5/20

Caldoro Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005 DDescription: A lovely nose of pure dark cherries, which feature once more on a light, rounded palate.

Available from: 13.95 from Michael's, Mount Merrion.

Drink with: with pizza and lighter pasta dishes, although this is quite an all-rounder.

112.5/20

Otella Lugana, Veneto 2006 DDescription: Another soft, easy, intensely fruity wine with concentrated canned pears. A wine that grows with every sip.

Available from: 13.95 from Michael's, Mount Merrion.

Drink with: Michael's Caprese salad.

113/20

Germano Ettore Barbera d'Alba, Piedmonte 2005 DDescription: My kind of wine . . .

fresh summer fruits, with a lovely briskness; not too much alcohol and not too much fruit. Delicious drinking.

Available from: 16.95 from Michael's, Mount Merrion.

Drink with: a large plate of mixed antipasti . . . salami, ham and cheeses 114/20