Blue Nun, Black Tower and Bend in the River are not the finest examples of Riesling; nor are any of the other cheapo German wines. Most don't contain any Riesling at all.

Those that do are not made from the finest raw material.

Not all German Riesling is sweet, although some of the best examples can be. But these days there is a huge range of fresh crisp dry German Rieslings that are a match for any dry whites the world over. These are breathtaking, spine-tingling racy wines, with an amazing purity of fruit. They are all free of clumsy oak flavours, and tend to be lower in alcohol . . . perfect as an aperitif, or with all manner of fish, seafood and white meats.

Earlier this year, I visited Prowein, a large wine fair that takes place annually in Dusseldorf. I spent the entire first day tasting Riesling, both German and Austrian. I came home wondering why the wines don't sell better in Ireland . . . they are currently going through a huge growth spurt in the US and mainland Europe.

Acidity is key to all good Riesling, and German Riesling in particular. Marketing people tell me that the consumer dislikes the word; but it is acidity that gives freshness, vitality and longevity to all wines, and great Riesling in particular. The great off-dry wines, Kabinett, Spatlese and sweeter Auslesen, are given their perfect balance by the mix of sugar and acidity.

It is not always easy to understand German wines. The nomenclature is confusing (although entirely logical) and the vineyard names can be very unwieldy. But if you look out for the words 'Trocken', or 'Halbtrocken' you can be sure the wine will be very dry, or just off-dry; then look out for the word Riesling, and you can be sure you are letting yourself in for a real treat.

Dr von Bassermann Jordan Rieling, Trocken, Pfalz 200

Description: Crystal-clear light fresh apple and pear fruits, with a lovely zesty finish. Great summer drinking.

Available from: 15.95 from Red Island Wine Co, Skerries;

Redmond's, Ranelagh; On the Grapevine, Booterstown; Harvest off-licences, Galway; Partridges, Gorey, Co Wexford;

Baily Wines, Howth, Co Dublin;

Wicklow Wine Co

Drink with: Potted crab
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Christopher Tyrell Karthauserhofberg Riesling Halbtrocken Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Description: This is an uplifting blend of pure honey and lemon zest in a most delicate, gentle, but very moreish wine.

Available from: 12.45 from Redmonds, Ranelagh; The Vanilla Grape, Kenmare: Hand Made Wine & Food, Lismore; Karwig Wines, Carrigaline.

Drink with: The perfect aperitif.

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Domechant Werner'sches Weingut Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Spatlese Trocken, Rheingau 2004

Description: Intense, majestic young wine with smooth pears and apricots alongside a wetstone, mineral finish.

Great now, but will surely develop further.

Available from: 24.50

Drink with: A rich fish dish.

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Breuer Estate Rudesheim Riesling Rheingau 2006

Description: Elegant floral nose and then a perfectly balanced palate of fine green fruits, a light mineral streak and a lingering dry finish. Fantastic wine that deserves your attention.

Available from: 18.95 from the Wicklow Wine Co; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Probus Wines, Oughterard, Co Galway; Partridges, Gorey.

Drink with: Nigel Slater's steamed sea-bass with ginger and cucumber.

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