When entertaining in the summer I always think how lovely it is to serve homemade ice-creams, but in reality that seldom happens. Maybe it is because many of them require an ice-cream machine, which I only use the odd time, or perhaps because with the school holidays in full flight I am basically a taxi driver to my boys, ferrying them from one social gathering to the next, grabbing a bit of fresh air for myself if the weather allows.

The beauty of a semi-freddo is that it is usually very quick and straightforward to make, can be popped straight into the freezer . . . no need for ice cream machines here . . . and that when it comes to serving all you need to do is take it out of the freezer, cut it into slices and serve. Semi-freddo, which means 'semi-frozen', is a classic Italian dessert, which even though served straight from the freezer, does not set quite as firm as an ice cream.

What I add into a semi-freddo depends totally on the season. At the moment I love using raspberries with Limoncella, the Italian liqueur, but in the winter I often go for a chocolatey version. Either way, it is worth making twice the recipe at once . . . the loaf tins that they are frozen in take up no room in the freezer.

RASPBERRY AND LIMONCELLA SEMI-FREDDO
Serves 6-8

Limoncella is a gorgeous zesty lemon Italian liqueur which gives a great kick to the semifreddo and to the sauce. Replace with the same amount of freshly-squeezed lemon juice and a little finely grated lemon zest if you don't have any Limoncella hanging about!

For the semi-freddo

85g caster sugar
285ml cream
50ml Limoncella
2 x 200ml cartons creme fraiche
100g fresh or frozen (thawed) raspberries

For the raspberry and Limoncella sauce 250g fresh or frozen (thawed) raspberries 25-50g caster sugar 2 tbsp Limoncella 125g fresh raspberries, to serve Line the base of a 2lb (normal size) loaf tin with parchment paper or a double layer of cling film. Make the semi-freddo first.

Whisk the cream with half of the sugar and the Limoncella until it holds soft peaks.

Briefly whisk the creme fraiche so it is nice and creamy. Gently fold the creme fraiche into the softly whipped cream. Mash the raspberries and the remaining sugar in a shallow bowl with a fork leaving the raspberries just barely mashed and still quite chunky, then barely fold them into the cream mixture, just enough to swirl the raspberries through. Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf tin, smooth the top, cover and freeze for at least four hours .

Next make the sauce (this can also be made in advance, frozen for a few weeks and then thawed to serve). In a food processor or liquidizer whizz the raspberries with the sugar (the amount will depend on the sweetness of the raspberries) and the Limoncella, push through a sieve and place in a bowl or jug.

To serve remove the semi-freddo from the freezer, peel off the parchment / cling film, and place on a serving plate. Drizzle with a little raspberry and Limoncella sauce and scatter some fresh raspberries over the top.

Serve in slices with the remaining sauce .

PINE NUT CROCCANTE SEMI-FREDDO
Serves 6-8

The pine nuts which are made into a crunchy croccante ( Italian for 'praline') by cooking them with sugar give this a delicious flavour, quite different to the more usual hazelnut or almond praline. A crunchy, nutty croccante will keep very well in a kilner jar for a few weeks.

For the pinenut croccante

200g sugar
150g pine nuts

For the semi-freddo

Four eggs, separated

1 tsp vanilla extract
85g caster sugar
300ml cream

Pinch salt First of all make the pine nut croccante (praline). Put a sheet of parchment paper or silicone, non-stick mat on a baking tray.

Place the sugar in a wide saute or frying pan on a medium heat. Allow the sugar to cook but do not stir, just shake it slightly to even out the sugar on the base. When the sugar starts to caramelise you can swirl the pan a bit so that it caramelises evenly but, again, do not stir. Once the sugar turns light golden-brown add the pine nuts and allow them to toast in the caramelised sugar on the heat, just for about 10 seconds, do not burn the sugar or the nuts. When ready, immediately pour out onto the prepared baking tray, set aside and allow to cool and harden.

When it has hardened and become crunchy, place the croccante in a food processor and whizz until still quite rough.

Set aside and make the semi-freddo. Line the base of a 2lb (normal size) loaf tin with parchment paper or a double layer of cling film. Whisk the four egg yolks in a bowl with the vanilla extract and the caster sugar until the mixture turns pale. In another bowl, whisk the cream until it forms soft peaks. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff. Fold the softly whipped cream into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the egg whites and half of the croccante (keep the other half for serving). Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf tin, cover, and freeze for at least four hours until firm. Serve in slices decorated with the extra croccante.

DARK CHOCOLATE LAYERED SEMI-FREDDO

Serves 6-8

I love this really simple semi-freddo. Feel free to add other ingredients with or in the place of the dark chocolate, such as croccante (nutty praline) or liquer soaked raisins.

For the semi-freddo Three eggs, separated 150g caster sugar 500ml cream 200g really good dark chocolate, chopped finely For the chocolate sauce 75g dark chocolate, chopped 100ml cream Line the base of a 2lb loaf tin with parchment paper. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until pale and light. In another bowl, whip the cream until it holds soft peaks. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until they hold firm peaks.

Fold the cream into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the egg whites gently. Sprinkle one-third of the chopped chocolate on the base of the prepared tin, then pour half the semi-freddo mixture over the chocolate, followed by the next third of the chocolate, followed by the remaining semi-freddo, followed by, at last, the remaining chocolate.

Cover and freeze for at least four hours, until frozen.

Next make the chocolate sauce. Melt the chocolate in a bowl sitting over a saucepan of slightly simmering water and whisk in the cream until smooth. Serve the semifreddo in slices with a drizzle of chocolate sauce.

WHITE CHOCOLATE AND ALMOND SEMI-FREDDO
Serves 6-8

This recipe uses a 'croccante' again, this time with almonds, which are absolutely divine with white chocolate.

For the croccante:

100g sugar
125g almonds (I like them with their skins on for this)

For the semi-freddo:

Three egg yolks
50g caster sugar
100g white chocolate, finely chopped
285ml cream

First of all make the almond croccante.

Put a sheet of parchment paper or a silicone, non-stick mat on a baking tray.

Put the sugar and whole almonds in a wide saute or frying pan on a medium heat. Allow the sugar to cook but do not stir, just shake it slightly to even out the sugar on the base.

When the sugar starts to caramelise, you can swirl the pan a bit so that it caramelises evenly but, again, do not stir.

Once the sugar turns golden brown and the nuts are toasted, pour out onto the prepared baking tray, set aside and allow to cool and harden.

When it has hardened and become crunchy, put the croccante in a food processor and whizz until it is the size of coarse breadcrumbs. Set aside.

Next, make the semi-freddo. Line the base of a 1kg loaf tin with parchment paper or a double layer of cling film. In a bowl whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale and light.

In another bowl whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Fold the cream into the egg yolk mixture, followed by the chopped white chocolate and about half the croccante (keep the rest for serving).

Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf tin, cover, and freeze for at least four hours until firm. Serve in slices decorated with the extra croccante.

BOOK OF THE WEEK 'Daily Italian' by Tobie Puttock, published by Mitchell Beazley is just what you need to put a bit of sun into your day. Tobie, who is head chef at Jamie Oliver's Fifteen in Melbourne, gathers his favourite Italian recipes that he has discovered, reinvented and perfected while working as a chef in some of the world's great Italian restaurants. Try the roast chicken with fennel seeds, pancetta and capers and the peaches baked with amaretto