But the best summer wines are delicate, clean and easy to drink. Most of the time outdoors drinking means less expensive wines. It doesn't seem right to open up your finest bottles; all of those complex flavours evaporate in the open air. A glass of something simple but satisfyingly fruity does the trick. However, if it is a special occasion, if I am having a really good piece of fish, or a couple of friends around for dinner, I am quite happy to push the boat out a bit. This week, I list two less expensive bottles for everyday quaffing and two for what my daughter calls 'le posh nosh'.

I looked at Riesling last week but cannot resist one more, this time from Alsace, a region that offers no end of fantastic fresh unoaked whites. The Pinot Blanc, also from Alsace, made by the very talented Catherine Faller, is probably the finest I have tasted.

Is anyone out there suffering from Sauvignon fatigue yet? Ever popular at home and in restaurants alike, I have had one too many gooseberry and green fruit Sauvignon in recent months. I am trying, unsuccessfully, to wean my good wife off the grape in exchange for something a bit more interesting. Or at least a bit of variety. However, the South African example below is one very exciting wine at a very keen price.

Lastly the Domaine Begude Le Petit Ange (or little angel) is great stuff from the beautiful high-altitude Languedoc estate of Charles and Catherine Kinglake . . . this could well be my summer house wine, whilst Herself Outdoors can have the M'Hudi Sauvignon.

Domaine Begude Le Petit Ange, Vin de pays d 2006
Description
A delicious, zingy, fresh, crisp dry white with tingling pure apple fruits.
Available from 9.99 from Superquinn.
Drink with plain seafood dishes or as an aperitif. Made for mussels or oysters.

12.5/20

Pinot Vin d'Alsace Domaine Weinbach Clos des Capucins 2001
Description
Elegant, mature, easy dry white that grew better with every sip. Expensive but worth it.
Available from 27.49 from Kenmare Food Company, Kenmare; Donnybrook Fair; Claudio's, George's Arcade; and Ely wine bars.
Drink with a fillet of hake with a herby tomato salsa.

14/20

M'Hudi Elgin Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa 2006
Description
A smart, incredibly cheap wine from a cooler region of South Africa. Fresh, mediumbodied with tart green fruits and some clean gooseberries too.
Available from 11.99 from Marks & Spencer.
Drink with fresh goat's cheese with a salad of grilled red peppers.

13/20

Domaine DirlerCade Riesling, Alsace 2004
Description Yet another brilliant Riesling, a perfect taut balance of steely minerals and rich stewed apple fruits. Irresistible.
Available from 17.95 from Berry Bros & Rudd, Harry Street, Dublin 2.
Drink with seared Tuna with a sesame crust.
16/20