And so it is with Johnny's garden . . . his other great passion . . . a tranquil and tropical retreat to the rear of his south-Dublin period house.

Two sets of double glass doors open from the big extended kitchen to the paved courtyard to the side and to the rear. Steps lead up from these spaces to the terraced lawn where one of Johnny's favourite plant species . . . mansized New Zealand ferns . . . create an almost jungle effect.

Where kitchen ends and garden begins is delightfully blurred when the doors are left open, while the garden also conforms to the good design rule that you shouldn't be able to take it all in at a single glance.

The high boundary walls are painted cream, echoing that of the rustic kitchen presses and antique Aga in the kitchen. A profusion of deep blue Agapanthus (Lily of the Nile) dominates the raised beds while deep pink asters form a circular 'carpet' at the base of a slim specimen Robinia Pseudocacia (Lace Lady).

A screen of bamboo encloses the smaller patio, with the velvety leaves of hostas peeping out underneath. Terracotta quarry tiles laid on the patio 'floors' also enhance that sense of indoor/ outdoor merging into one large room.

Twelve people can be seated comfortably around the big oak kitchen table . . . just as well then that Johnny has no less than three barbecues ready to swing into action.

Barbecues? In this weather?

"Well it was a good April and May, " smiles Johnny, adding that he is a confirmed barbecue fan . . . hail, rain or shine.

"It's such a clean, quick way of cooking and the sun doesn't have to be splitting the stones. I don't actually have a state-of-the-art oven, in the conventional sense, in the house and use either the Aga or the barbecue."

The best barbecue on the market is the Weber 'Barrel', which has a combination of gas and charcoal function, he adds. Purists who scoff at gas barbecues will be pleased to hear that this top chef says the downside of gas is that the temperature can only go so high. "With charcoal combined, you can really get a great heat going."

Of the other two barbecues in the garden, one is a small, table-top design great for impromptu picnics or trips to the beach. Portability is an important factor . . .

Johnny's catering business extends to corporate events as well as hosting barbecues in private clients' gardens.

"We did one recently for 160 people. It was easy. You just need to be organised and have enough barbecues . . . and enough chefs. It all adds a bit of theatre to the event."

Outdoor heat for guests is crucial too and in Johnny's garden a castiron brazier helps keeps the party going when the temperature drops.

"I usually bring along three or four outdoor heaters when catering for clients as they create a warmth in addition to the barbecues. The very best . . . proper . . . charcoal is from Spiceland, just behind the Bleeding Horse in Camden Street."

When it comes to the garden itself, Johnny has an affection for all of the plants, from the herbs used for his cooking to those lofty New Zealand ferns.

This is a garden to savour, drawing visitors with the fragrance of verbena and lavendar on the breeze . . . and especially the aroma from those barbecues.

WHERE TO BUY

For the best charcoal Spiceland, off Camden Street, Dublin 2. Or check out your local Asian food store For garden plants Denise Clark at the corporation fruit and vegetable market, off Capel Street, Dublin 1 For rare plants Heritage Bulb Society, Westmeath For Weber barbecues Most leading garden stores For outdoor braziers Lidl or Aldi For corporate and private garden parties and barbecues, check out www. cookesrestaurant. com

THREE TO STEAL

1An oil spray is indispensable for a light-misting meat, fish or chicken before cooking . . . it also helps stop food sticking to the barbecue
2 Don't oversalt meat . . . Johnny suggests seasoning the Asian way by mixing sea salt with water and then basting meat lightly with this mixture. The water dries, leaving just a hint of salt without drying out the meat
3 A barbecue favourite of Johnny's is a one-kilo (or double porterhouse) T-bone steak, brushed with oil and lots of chopped thyme. He serves this with homemade horseradish sauce