In 1996, Wine Australia published Strategy 2025. The plan envisaged an ambitious increase in sales to $4.5bn.

That figure was achieved in 2005, some 20 years early. The same body has now published Direction 2025, a mapping out a new plan for Australia's 2,000 wine producers.

Two things are worth noting. First of all, having targeted the importer and press in the past, the focus will now shift to the wine drinker. Funds will be provided to conduct tastings showing the diversity of Australian wine. Advertising campaigns will highlight wine tourism, a serious business these days. Secondly, Wine Australia has attempted to divide the country's wine into four categories, each demonstrating a particular strength. It all makes sense but will rely on the producer, importer and retailer using the system.

The four categories are Regional Heroes, Generation Next, Brand Champions and Landmark Australia.

Regional Heroes are wines with distinct regional character. Generation Next are more modern wines, led as much by marketing and packaging as by the liquid in the bottle, although some are very good.

Brand Champions are the leading Aussie brands such as Penfolds, Rosemount and Jacob's Creek. Landmark Australia are the top-quality wines with aspirational status.

Below I have selected one wine to fit into each category. Talking to each of the importers, only two were aware of the new categories. Obviously the Aussies have some work to do.

Regional Hero:

Brokenwood Semillon 2006, Hunter Valley DDescription A distinctive, regional speciality that will age for up to 10 years. Light, aromatic and refreshing with smooth-textured yellow fruits and a vibrant tangy citrus edge.

Available from 17.99 from The Hole in the Wall, D7; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Patrick Stewart Wines, Sligo; Fallon & Byrne.

Drink with Mild Asian seafood dishes.

114/20

Brand Champion:

McGuigan Black Label Shiraz 2004 SE Australia

DescriptionMcGuigan is one of the biggest success stories in Australia over the last decade. This offers plenty of no-frills jammy ripe plum fruits, overlaid with spicy oak.

Available from 9.99 from most good off-licences and wine shops.

Drink with barbecued food . . .if the sun ever comes out.

112/20 Generation

Next:

Heartland Wines Dolcetto Lagrein, Langhorne Creek 2005
114/20

Landmark:

D'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2003

Description One of Australia's true icons. Masses of rich ripe plums and cassis vie with the spicy oak, eucalyptus and dried figs. Complex and powerful. An outstanding wine.

Available from 40 from most independent off-licences.

Drink with something equally rich and robust . . . a roast of beef or lamb.

118/20