To compile the final 50, I broke the list down into 10 categories. I then asked friends, contacts, restaurant suppliers, chefs, other critics and basically everyone I met over the past three months . . . including my postman, who suggested the Dail canteen as the best place for a party atmosphere . . .

for their recommendations. That information, combined with my own personal knowledge of the restaurants and the choices of the experts in each category . . . to whom I am extremely grateful for their contribution . . .informed the decisionmaking process.

I know I haven't got everybody who should be celebrated, and I hope there isn't anyone listed here that shouldn't be. If you have had a similar experience with these restaurants or, for that matter, think I may have included a few bad eggs, or left anyone out, please let me know. I am already drafting my letters of apology to those who may have slipped through the prongs of my selective fork. In the meantime, I hope you find the list useful on your culinary journeys.

Bon Appetit!

ROMANTIC/ ATMOSPHERIC

Lucy Kennedy, TV presenter:

RASAM 18/19 Glasthule Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin Telephone: 01 230 0600 Above the Eagle House in Glasthule, Rasam is the best Indian restaurant I have ever been to. I know it may seem an unusual choice for romance or a date but, combined with a stroll down Dun Laoghaire pier, it's my absolute favourite for a lovedup night out. I'm a HUGE fan of Indian food. I dream about hot naan bread and smooth, creamy Chicken Tikka Masala washed down with a cold beer or a good bottle of red wine.

Soft lighting, silk cushions and lots of candles make it a really cool and intimate destination. I love lounging on the super comfy sofas in the lounge area too. For a romantic meal with your better half . . . or potential better half! . . . the food, fantastic service and ambience at Rasam will not let you down.

PORT HOUSE (below) 64a South William Street, Dublin 2.
Telephone: 01 677 0298

This cavern of love is all low light and flickering candles. Food is mostly of the tapas variety, perfect to share and not too filling. Stone walls and a private nook . . . if you can nab it . . .

combine to create a seriously romantic retreat from the thronging crowds outside.

Suitable if you just want to share a bottle of wine with a platter or two of pinchos. The unisex bathroom is also worth checking out for the quirky decor.

THE LOBSTER POT
9 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4.
Telephone: 01 668 0025

Serene and intimate, the Lobster Pot is an oldfashioned favourite in D4. None of your trendy hard lines or chrome here . . . this is a destination with a hint of class.

Dress up, meet up, head down and get served, properly. Sadly, there are few restaurants around which can match the Lobster Pot for its romantic atmosphere. For afters, go for the sensuous Crepes Suzette for two.

NIMMO'S Spanish Arch, Long Walk, Galway.
Telephone: 091 561 114

This delightfully kooky spot enjoys spectacular views of Claddagh bay. Fresh-cut flowers, candelabras, soft cream walls and conversation-inspiring furniture, all conspire to induce total immersion in the cocoonlike atmosphere. We often don't want to leave. Dishes from New Zealand and the Middle East give Nimmo's a touch of the exotic too. Service is efficient yet unobtrusive.

WINEPORT LODGE
Glasson, Athlone, Co Westmeath.
Telephone: 090 643 9010

A mega retreat in the midlands, Wineport has gained accolades galore over recent years for its sweet suites and its classy restaurant. The dining room is memorable for the views and its quiet, understated ambience. A wine list to drool over and a sophisticated menu lend romantic endeavours a large helping hand. If you're lucky, or if you get lucky, spend the night: all the luxury you can endure and more.

PARTIES / GROUP FUN DIEP LE SHAKER
55 Pembroke Lane, Dublin 2
Telephone: 01 661 1829

The party atmosphere is usually notched up high at this glitzy Thai. Cocktails from the Buddha Bar and fragrant stirfries from the Royal Thai kitchen fuel a lively yet wellbehaved crowd. The clientele is more thirty- than twentysomething and there is live jazz every Tuesday and Wednesday night. More a night out than just a meal.

CACTUS JACK'S
Court House Lane, Quay Street, Galway
Telephone: 091 563838

Cactus Jack's specialise in catering for large parties and the food, mostly inspired by Meheeco, is pleasing. The menu is long and varied: as well as frozen Margaritas, fat fajitas and fillet steaks, there are well thought out veggie options available, so even Virginia from acounts will find something to smile about. The crowd is young, raucous and up for fun. Not for the faint-hearted.

PULLMAN RESTAURANT (above)
Glenlo Abbey Hotel, Bushypark, Co Galway.
Telephone: 1 800 4536 5666

Choo-choo-choose this place if you're looking for a restaurant with well-bred character.

Combining two carriages, the Pullman has had a remarkable history. Its routes have passed through Monaco, Istanbul and Saint Petersburg. It now lives in Galway. Murder on the Orient Express, 1920s and other themed nights make it a much-sought-after destination for the corporate crowd but it's just as much fun for personal celebratory bashes.

TANTE ZOE'S
1 Crow Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2.
Telephone: 01 679 44072

'Laissez les bon temps roulez!' . . . and they do at this Cajun/Creole funhouse in Temple Bar. Large parties are welcomed and the theme is the Deep South. The Cajun soundtrack and a menu sporting jambalays and gumbos to beat the band create a party atmosphere which is hard to match. Cocktails are superb. Order a Mint Julep, sit back and pretend you're on the bayou. The French Quarter in the Cultural Quarter.

PJGibbons, Social & Personal magazine editor:BLU RESTAURANT
Pearse Street, Kinsale, Co Cork.
Telephone: 021 4772209

Searching for a good restaurant for an intimate twosome is one thing but locating somewhere trendy with great food and even better service for, say, a menage-a-cinq, or even douze, is a different matter entirely.

Perhaps it's not so difficult a task in the capital but finding somewhere outside Dublin can sometimes prove a chore. My favourite is Blu Restaurant in Kinsale, a marvellous eatery which boasts "modern Irish cuisine with an international twist" . . . if you don't mind. Snappy service and snazzy surroundings ensure you and your party are in for a special treat and the food really is highly commendable. They also have an outdoor decking area for those who are partial to chomping on a stogie after dinner.

BUDGET BRILLIANCE

FALLON & BYRNE
11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.
Telephone: 01 472 1010

The Monday night corkage deal in the basement of this foodie monster has been a littleknown secret for a while now.

The choice of wines is excellent and the 1 corkage fee is exemplary in a city, more often than not, derided for its rip-off practices.

Lunchtime prices on the ground floor are a treat too: try the potato gratin with mushrooms, French beans and pine nuts for about 4.

L'GUEULETON
1 Fade Street, Dublin 2
Telephone: 01 675 3708

Simple and sophisticated, the impossibly named l'Gueuleton has made its mark by serving excellent food at meek prices.

Bills have edged upwards since opening two years ago but they still fall short of many other middle-range restaurants in the vicinity.

Troy Maguire was the French-bistro fanatic who established the cooking style here, which has thankfully been maintained.

LA DOLCE VITA
6 Trimmer's Lane, Wexford
Telephone: 053 9170806

Pull off a real Italian Job. Raved about by critics who love to rave, La Dolce Vita warrants the hullabaloo.

We visited it on a Satuday afternoon and the turn-around was astounding . . . jammers from the beginning to the end of a very enjoyable, reasonably priced meal.

Try the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese ( 9.75) and follow with Chocolate cake with pears and panna cotta ( 5) with a superb espresso ( 1.70).

GRANGECON CAFE
Tullow Road, Blessington, Co Wicklow.
Telephone: 045 857892

Not exactly cheap at first glance but, in the value for money stakes, Grangecon is hard to beat.

Local, natural produce is served in homely surroundings. Run by Richard and Jenny Street, their dedication permeates through every aspect of the operation.

This charming cafe is streets ahead of most, a benchmark restaurant in every sense.

Eleanor Walsh, chef:MARKET LANE 5/6

Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork.
Telephone: 021 4274710

A light-filled room with comfortable banquette seating and a friendly greeting . . . no reservation needed. Market offers great food and really good value using local Cork produce. Highlights include hearty homemade soups, a really good steak sandwich and chicken and ham hock served with creamy mashed potatoes. The menu is more substantial after 5pm. I enjoyed an excellent squash bake with a nutty gratin. The wine list is accessible and fun and you can get Murphy's and Heineken on draught. The coffee is good and both the chocolate brownie and bannoffi did what these desserts are meant to do. I enjoyed a three-course meal for two including two glasses of wine and coffee for 50.

STYLISH

Melanie Morris, editor, Image magazine:RESTAURANT PATRICK GUILBAUD
21 Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2
Telepone: 01 676 4192

There are few restaurants in Ireland one bothers to dress up for any longer, just as there are very few 'expense account' haunts where one would delight in spending one's own hardearned, heavily taxed euros. For me, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud is the exception . . . and that's before they've had their imminent makeover. Going to Guilbaud's is something you look forward to, plan around and drop stuff into the dry cleaners for. A few things stand out for me about Guilbaud's and, if I'm honest, none is the food . . . as it's a given that in a two-Michelin-starred joint, the grub will be pretty hot.

Firstly, I adore Guilbaud's front man, Stephane Robin. If he were to move to the Embassy Grill (highly unlikely as he walks the walk as well as talking the talk), I'd probably move with him. He's one of those rare people you come into contact with whom you have a great, genuine chat, as opposed to exchanging flowery pleasantries. Once in the door, I love the drawing room, filled with beautiful 20th-century paintings, where the waiters bring champagne, canapes and a copy of the Irish Times if you are first and awaiting companions.

I love that once ensconced in the dining room, you'll be fed with a array of surprises as well as the dishes you've ordered . . .it's the surprise element that appeals (possibly to the eternal 12-year-old in me). I dream of the dinkie mini-baguettes (again, says my inner 12-yearold) and the dainty petit fours that accompany coffee.

Best of all, I adore the way that in spite of eating all of these heavenly treats (and yes I do think the portions are ample in size) in the most glamorous surroundings . . . who doesn't like rubbernecking around Guilbaud's? . . . you'll leave without groaning from overfeeding.

STILL RESTAURANT
The Dylan Hotel, Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4
Telephone: 01 6603000

One of the slickest dining rooms in the country. Still is not to everyone's taste. White walls, a white baby grand and a 'New Baroque' decor create an ambience of decadence and luxury . . . think Wallpaper magazine. Food matches the surroundings excess for excess and the smoking terrace has become the place for seeing and being seen in Dublin.

LOCK'S
1 Windsor Terrace Portobello, Dublin 8
Telephone: 01 454 3391

Troy Maguire, along with the excellent management team of Kelvin and Teresa Rynhart, has pulled off a winner. Many of you will remember the original Lock's; the new version is a lot more stylish but the essence of the rooms remain. I really love the upstairs rooms in here, colonial-inspired gold wallpaper, art deco sideboards and plenty of light.

The crowd is usually super-stylish. A couple of weeks ago we spotted Kim Catrall and a moustachioed Daniel Radcliffe there.

ZUNI
26 Patrick Street, Kilkenny.
Telephone: 056 7723999

Modern Irish food with subtle Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences informs the menu at Zuni, my favourite restaurant in Kilkenny. More minimal than extravagant, the interior is light, spacious and modern. Always a pleasure to enjoy pre- or post-prandial drinkies from the ridiculously comfortable leather sofas in the bar area.

RIVA
The 'g' hotel, Wellpark, Galway
Telephone: 091 865200

The Philip Treacy designed 'g' hotel is a masterpiece. Unsurprisingly, its restaurant Riva has accumulated the kind of salivating press usually reserved for beautiful Hollywood starlets.

The phrase 'decadent surroundings' is thrown about willy-nilly in restaurant reviews but for Riva it is apt. Deep purple, pink and other loud colours; velvets, silks and some gravity-defying interior architecture make this one of the country's most stylish restaurant settings.

ETHNIC

JAIPUR
41 South Great George's Street, Dublin 2
Telephone: 01 677 0999

Asheesh Dewan's sub-continental flagship on South Great George's Street has led the way for the ethnic food revolution in Ireland since it opened more than seven years ago. My favourites are still the Goan seafood curry and the Murgh Tanjore: chicken breast stir-fried with curry leaves, slit chilies and tomato, finished with coconut milk and cashew nuts. The Rolls Royce of Indians.

MONTY'S OF KATHMANDU
28 Eustace Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
Telephone: 01 670 4911

The only Nepalese restaurant in the country? Maybe. Monty's has been out of the limelight for a while. When it was first discovered in its Temple Bar lair in 1998, every food critic in the greater Dublin area reviewed it, raved about it and then forgot about it. It still rocks as far as I'm concerned and is definitely worth trying more than once. Start with the Kachela and follow it with lamb Gorkhali. Ethnic heaven.

HO SEN (above)
6 Cope Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2.
Telephone: 01 671 8181

Stylish, authentic and good value. The first time I dined here was with Helen Lucy Burke and we both agreed the fish hotpot Ca Kho To was one of the most comforting dishes we'd tasted, ever. Vietnamese restaurants are thin on the ground in Ireland but who needs quantity when we have one of the best examples of quality in Ho Sen. Go once and you'll keep going back.

TULSI 3
Buttermilk Walk, Middle Street, Galway
Telephone: 091 564831

Tulsi does not specialise in any particular regional cuisine but what it does it does well. Comfortable, vaguely exotic surroundings and good value for money with a great selection of Indian beers. It is what a weekday Indian should be. I recommend the vegetarian Dal Tarka and the samosas are always just right.

Helen Lucy Burke, writer: WAGAMAMA

So! What makes Wagamama . . . any Wagamama . . . one of my favourite restaurants? (Cork and Dublin have a pea-in-a pod Wagamama apiece. ) Well it sure as hell isn't the comfort. The hard, backless benches seem designed to discourage long-sitters. During peak periods the Wagamama noise reaches pain level. It's the good value and honesty of the food that lure me in. I recommend a starter nibble of deliciously salty edami beans as a communal icebreaker. Warm saki is a great accompaniment, but pricey. My favourite dishes . . .bowls! . . . are the ramen dishes, basically of soup with rice and various combinations of vegetables, fish or meat. Etiquette is to raise the bowl to the mouth and slurp like a hippo. The chilli beef ramen is my out-and-out favourite, combining squares of beef with tonguetingling chillis, bean sprouts, coriander and red onions in a beef, vinegar and chilli broth. The slurp factor is high. Bring extra napkins.

.

FISH Kevin Thornton, chef:OUT OF THE BLUE
Waterside, Dingle, Co Kerry.
Telephone: 066 915 0811

I love Dingle, and after a good dive I like nothing better than to head to Tim Mason's delightful fish restaurant Out of the Blue for a relaxing lunch or dinner with family and friends. You can't miss it . . . it looks like a brightly-painted surf shop from the outside, which for me is all part of its charm.

The menu changes daily depending on the catch . . . and if the weather has been too bad for the boats to go out, the restaurant simply doesn't open.

Needless to say, the food is first rate and it is cooked very simply, with little fuss, to let the flavours sing out. What I really love about it is that, along with the likes of langoustines, crab, lobster, sole and salmon, you will always find unusual fish on the blackboard, like gurnard and pollock, so the menu always has an element of surprise, which is wonderful. Tim's brother Ben, of the Wicklow Wine Company, has helped develop an interesting and lively wine list to match the seafood. Add to this friendly and efficient service and an intimate atmosphere . . . I would be very happy for this restaurant to be on my doorstep.

CAVISTONS
59 Glasthule Road, Sandycove, Co Dublin
Telephone: 01 2809120

Peter Caviston's seafood seductress in Sandycove is a mere 26seater, yet has managed to impress most, if not all, seafood lovers worth their salt. Not only is the restaurant small, they only open for lunch too so booking is essential. Chef Noel Cusack is sensitive to the needs of his customers and he is also on very good terms with his fish. Try the Tranche of cod with mild curry sauce.

KING SITRIC
East Pier, Howth, Co Dublin.
Telephone: 01 832 5235

A seafood stalwart since 1979 and still going strong. The King Sitric is a favourite among north Co Dublin fish fans and is usually packed. The menu is informed by what has come in off the boats. I recommend the King Sitric Seafood platter as the easiest way to get a good selection of incredibly fresh fish, relatively cheaply ( 20).

FISHY FISHY CAFE (below)
Kinsale, Co Cork
Telephone: 021 4774453

Having rewritten the book with Fishy Fishy, Martin and Marie Shanahan continue to wow customers at their quirky eatery in Kinsale. Check out the terrace; when the sun shines and you've a plate of crayfish in front of you, all is very good with the world.

The no-reservations policy means some will go away emptybellied so get there early to avoid disappointment.

O'GRADY'S ON THE PIER
Sea Point, Barna, Co Galway.
Telephone: 091 592223

Known far and wide, O'Grady's is a seafood pilgrimmage worth making. With superb views in summer and a welcoming cosiness in winter, it's hard not to see why. The grub is fantastic. Try the Tasting Trio of seafood: scallops, sea bass and trout accompanied by an ambitious melange of tastes and textures make it a marvel for the mouth.

WINE

FINDS THE WINDING STAIR
40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1.
Telephone: 01 872 7320

Trevor White put it well when he said "the wine list is a killer" in his review of the Winding Stair last year. Eclectic, quirky and featuring many previously unsung heroes, whoever puts this list together is either totally mad or a genius, perhaps the latter. A lovely location with a great view of the Liffey from the huge picture windows make this a great spot to linger over a bottle or four.

SEASONS RESTAURANT
Four Seasons Hotel, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4.
Telephone: 01 665 4642

Admirably run by John Healy, Seasons restaurant is a destination with class. A somewhat transatlantic feel from the chain that launched a thousand hotels, the dining room is grand, in every sense of the word. The wine list has been compiled with a true wine-lover's passion; house wines start at around 30 per bottle . . . a little pricey but worth it. A large selection are available by the glass.

ELY CHQ (right)
Custom House Quay, Docklands, Dubln 1.
Telephone: 01 672 0010

Not the original of the species and not the last but every bit a winesipper's paradise as the first haunt at Ely Place. Manager Darren Thompson is a true gentleman and his team are a dedicated bunch.

During the day sit and bask in the light of the glassy ground floor; at night head underground where some of their best vintages live. I guarantee there will be something to impress.

THE LORD BAGENAL
Leighlinbridge, Co Carlow
Telephone: 059 9721668

Wining and dining Carlowegians and visitors alike since 1979, the Lord Bagenal has gained a solid reputation as a restaurant with one of the most enviable wine lists in the country. The list is long and peppered with old classics and new friends. House wines are priced from 18- 20 and the mark-up on most bottles is not extortionate. Food is well-presented and commendable.

John Wilson, wine critic:FARMGATE
The Coolbawn, Midleton, Co Cork
Telephone: 021 463 2771

I like short wine lists, which usually feature in small unpretentious restaurants. I adore Ballymaloe House for Irish food done with respect for tradition and local ingredients, and a short, impeccably-chosen wine list. However, one of the best really short lists is the Farmgate in the English Market in Cork . . . bacon and cabbage with a glass of Burgundy for lunch leaves all the senses satisfied!

FAMILY FRIENDLY

Domini Kemp, restaurateur: AVOCA N7
Naas Road, Rathcoole, Co Dublin
Telephone: 01 257 1800

Despite the grim but convenient location with lots of free parking, once inside, you enter a Willy Wonka world of cutesey things for mom, pops and all the gang.