With the message from the promoters urging gig-goers to use public transport clearly not getting through, hundreds of cars were stuck for hours on the narrow country roads leading to the site. Local people attempted to provide information to those stranded in late-night traffic jams, with much speculation that far more people than those with tickets had actually turned up.

Many arrived at midnight on Friday and later, missing most of the first night's festivities, including a captivating performance from Icelandic singer Bjork.

When everyone eventually got there, the car parks and campsites were well prepared, with the muddy scenery that has marred some of Ireland's outdoor music performances this summer a distant memory. It was apparent, though, that the crowd was a capacity one and then some. Even the poor VIPs suffered, with an overflow VIP camping site opening in the festival's Boutique Camping Village.

But this year . . . the festival's fourth . . . is still the most spectacular. The Body and Soul Village, at the centre of the main arena, provides hammocks for those a little sleepy from the night before. Cafes and bars dot the site with giant sand sculptures and a 500,000 sculpture by gardener Diarmuid Gavin doubles as an acoustic stage. A natural amphitheatre leads down to the Chill Out Stage where acoustic troubadors while away the mornings. Tarot card readers and performance artists make up the numbers.

Nearby, the Inflatable Church gets ready for a day of matrimony. Last year, Kelly Osbourne tied the knot with her then boyfriend and the ministers are hoping for a similar starry outing this weekend. A much larger and more daunting chapel is across the field, the massive Lost Vagueness, a sanctuary of burlesque and weird and wonderful performances. The Big Wheel of Fossets Circus next to the giant chapel keeps the many children on site amused.

The most privileged punters reside in the Boutique Camping Village. An allnight bar with couches, tables, music, lap-tops with wireless internet access and champagne and wine stands are where most Village residents hung out until the early hours.

The accommodation is as expensive as it is eclectic. Katie Knuttel and Niall Newman forked out 4,000 for a Silver Airstream trailer billed as the most exclusive place to rest your head after checking out acts including New Yorkers The Beastie Boys and The Chemical Brothers. But they weren't overly impressed. "It was okay until everyone trashed it, " Knuttel said yesterday as they chilled near some teepees. The retro furniture promised didn't live up to their standards either. "Was it worth it?

Absolutely not. It's just a bed and a couple of bean bags."

Their neighbours, Tim and Kelly Sweeney from Waterford, were a little more pleased with their beach hut accomodation. "It's great, " said Tim. "It's just for comfort, really. We stayed at a Pod Pad in Oxegen and it was the business. So we decided we'd get something we could stand up in. It's really comfy.

Our camping days are well behind us."

Next to them, a group from Athlone, Dublin, Mullingar and Kildare were breakfasting surrounded by teepees.

"We don't like mixing with the riff raff, " Dave Devine told the Sunday Tribune.

"This yoke sleeps eight and it's 800 for the weekend which isn't bad."

"The free make-up is amazing, " Caitriona O'Brien added, gesturing to the Mac cosmetic stand nearby, where the makeup artists were booked up for a Saturday of complimentary make-overs.

This morning, campers got spiritual, waking up to a performance by the Dublin Gospel Choir. Tonight, Primal Scream and Iggy and the Stooges are the main draws, and on the Irish front, Damien Dempsey and Kila take to the stage.