Her recent visits have brought yet more attention to the north London area, famous for housing alternative types and creatives . . .

though this mainly now involves daughters of millionaires and advertising execs. Winehouse's local, an unassuming pub that used to be a meeting point for Hell's Angels, is now frequented by a motley crue tagged as the 'Camden Caners'. These include Peaches Geldof, Kelly Osbourne, various members of Razorlight, Pete Doherty, the Mighty Boosh's Noel Fielding and Channel 4 presenter Alex Zane. In fact, it's where he was first spotted with another regular, Sadie Frost.

But now the secret about the Hawley Arms is out, the indierati will no doubt take their skinny-jeaned selves elsewhere. How do we know? Because that's exactly what happened when Britpop's finest (Blur, Oasis, Elastica) were spotted at Camden's last pub du jour, the Good Mixer. Once word had spread, the celebs scarpered to the furthest reaches of NW1, leaving befuddled tourists' autograph books empty.

The origins of Camden's coolness began in the 19th century with Irish immigration. Our forefathers came to help build the railways and work on the canal, and brought with them not only the concept of Irish pubs . . . though sadly most of them have now been sold to chains . . . but also their music history and instruments. Received well by the locals, it became a formative musical hub, which gathered pace until it was confirmed as alternative heaven when the swinging sixties kicked in . . . just watch Withnail And I for a romantic view of this era. And it was this time that the Roundhouse hosted Camden's very first major concert (Pink Floyd and Soft Machine in '66), as well as notable ones later that decade . . . Led Zeppelin, Jimi Hendrix and The Doors' only UK performance, to name a few.

As the alternative lifestyle grew with punk and the peace movement, so did the area. The famous markets appeared by the newly-disused canal in 1972 to sell clothes and curiosities, and attracted yet more visitors. In tandem, venues such as Dingwalls, the Electric Ballroom and what's now Koko opened up, creating a need for more nearby drinking dens. Which, bar a few tube stations, hundreds of well-paid media types, a Suggs song entitled 'Camden Town' and thousands of overseas tourists, is how it stands today.

David Hayes, editor of the Camden History Review, explains how it's kept its unique vibe:

"There's a large percentage of Camden town that's listed, meaning it's protected against being done away with to build a block of flats, " he says. "That said, they are knocking down a part of the market to make way for a new shopping mall.

"On the whole, though, it's kept its look . . . even down to the famous mural on the railway bridge. It's made it a lot easier for the atmosphere to stay the same.

It's that of the non-mainstream, yes, but in Camden that's traditional now."

The fact that Camden is now London's worst-kept secret has barely changed the ambiance.

Sure, chain stores like Virgin Megastore and Office have started creeping in. World-renowned celebs from Coldplay's Chris Martin to actress Helena Bonham-Carter are seen shopping at the local Sainsbury's. And house prices are the second most unaffordable to local residents in the whole of England. But the suited masses walk home from the tube passing druggies, their dealers, intimidating Goths, gaggles of 15-year-olds and stoned hippies all the same.

"The reason I like it here is the great mix of green spaces and the diverse communities, all of them with their own character, " confirms actor and travel writer Michael Palin. Indeed, there's much more to Camden than Amy Winehouse-spotting.

The locale is, of course, a haven for concerts.

Annually, the multitude of venues is formally taken advantage of with Camden Crawl, an equivalent to Dublin's Hard Working Class Heroes: one wristband gives you entry to two days of music in 12 venues across the area, where 80 bands showcase their material to only the hardened music-lover. It features any Camdite's regular haunts: The Underworld, The Dublin Castle (where Madness began), the Electric Ballroom, The Enterprise and of course the mothership that is The Barfly, where the Stereophonics, Muse and Doves played in their formative years. In Noel Gallagher's words, "it's 10 years ahead of anybody's time."

And the area doesn't just feature hip young whippersnappers playing beer-stained venues the size of your living room. The Jazz Cafe on Parkway brings over some of the biggest names in the adult contemporary field: Lee Scratch Perry, Courtney Pine and Nitin Sawhney being but a sample. Madonna chose Koko, on Camden High Street, to play in front of just 1,500, and the venue's also played host to James Blunt, Prince and Coldplay. Slightly larger and further afield is the Kentish Town Forum, formerly known as the Town & Country Club (Van Morrison, incidentally, played the last show at the T&C and the first with its renamed status).

Yet during the day, there's plenty to tire you out before dusk even sets. Turn left after exiting the tube station and the high street is that of any other English town . . . with a Woolworths, Boots and litter problem. Turn right, however, and you'll find the world-renowned markets . . . Camden market near the tube, the Lock market by the canal and the stables market further down. While many sell goth apparel that look like dressing-up clothes until the multi-pierced owner in a black tutu comes to assist you, there are plenty of items suitable for anyone: Doc Marten's and Punky Fish have a notable presence, and you'll be pushed to find anywhere that stocks better handmade jewellery or household knickknacks. And Camden market was the first place in the UK to exploit the loophole in the law that allowed magic mushrooms to be allowed magic mushrooms to be sold . . . but don't go looking for it as the legislation has since been hastily changed and the stall now vanished.

More family-friendly are the nearby parks; Primrose Hill offers stunning views over the heart of London, and is secluded enough to make it an oasis of peace in the busy city.

Regent's Park, meanwhile, is a great deal bigger and contains London Zoo . . . though be warned that roads run through the park so it can be difficult to completely shut out the urban world. Venture 10 minutes north of Camden and you'll hit the well-to-do suburb of Hampstead. Its heath may have gained a seedy reputation as a gay pick-up joint, but in reality it's fine, especially during the day.

Foodies will adore the sheer amount of eateries in the area. The myriad of communities is reflected in the different types of cuisines available, and the standard in the area is generally high . . . although judging by the quality of some Chinese and late-night takeaways, the clientele are clearly people who are used to festival food.

The Mango Rooms, a relaxed restaurant serving Afro-Caribbean cuisine, is a personal favourite . . . make sure you save room for the velvety mango and banana creme brulee.

A newer addition is Gilgamesh, a spectacular �16 million restaurant/bar though controversial; its grand entrance looks gawdy next to the antiquated charm of the stables market, and the pan-Asian cuisine doesn't exactly forgive them everything. Still, it's a dining experience. For a more low-key affair, Belgo is a Belgian bistro known primarily for its beers, mussels, frites and relaxed nature.

For a pre-gig bite to eat there are few places as quick and tasty as New Culture Revolution on Parkway, a dumpling and noodle bar similar to Wagamama's. Best of all is La Porchetta's newest location on Chalk Farm Road which serves authentic Italian pizzas with no need for frills or graces, the food's that amazing. Of course, the bars and pubs are a massive draw to the area, but there are so many it can be daunting. The general rule is that any bar gets the thumbs up. If it's cool, it's cool. If it's uncool, that makes it cool. Win win.

A great meeting point and lazy option is the World's End. In the very heart of Camden, right next to the station, it's spacious enough to nearly always have seats and drinks are of a reasonable price too. Conversely, the Camden Arms gastropub on Randolph Street is off the beaten track so is frequented mainly by local media types (get those plastic Prada glasses at the ready) looking for a quiet drink or Sunday roast in a sophisticated setting.

The Lock Tavern, owned by DJ John Carter, is more hip'n'happening and perfect for an alldayer. It transforms from a chilled-out gastropub with large, mismatched furniture with which to relax, to a buzzing party destination in a matter of hours. It even has a heated and covered al fresco area for smokers. It's a similar vibe in the newly-refurbished Buck's Head, which boasts a roof garden.

Bar Vinyl on Inverness Street, meanwhile, is anything but spacious . . . its grimy, cramped conditions are offset by the fact that it's a cute place to hang out. For late-night drinking in style, Bartok is open to 4am and unlike many pubs where guitar music dominates the room, the range of music played is as eclectic as their wine list.

Oh, and did we mention the Hawley Arms?

PLUSH IT OR SLUSH IT

Getting there It's more or less in central London, as serviced by BMI, Ryanair and Aer Lingus from around 40.

When to go The weather in London is similar to Ireland. So it's a case of out of the frying panf Where to stay As the area's unique vibrancy would immediately be killed off with the introduction of tourist facilities, good hotels are thin on the ground.

The largest presence, much to the detriment of the scenery, is the Holiday Inn. It being a chain, there's little in the way of Camden charm either in its exterior or interior, but at a pricey �200 ( 300) a night it's the prime accommodation in the area.

It's situated in the very heart of Camden on the scenic canal, meaning that the hotel is as buzzy as it gets.

But if your priority is luxury rather than location, Novotel in nearby Euston is �166 a night and benefits from a plush, modern interior as well as all the amenities that one would expect from a wellreputed 4-star hotel.

For a more modest room, The Britannia on Adelaide Road is a recommended option. It's a favourite of bands playing the nearby Barfly and at �75 ( 110) a night, is a reasonable price for the reasonable facilities and rooms. But for dirt-cheap accommodation to experience the true scuzziness of Camden living, St Christopher's Inn on Camden High Street is a popular choice for backpackers, not least for its �20 ( 30)-a-night beds or the attached bar that's open to the public.