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Doorstep Doctor
Steve Guerin



Q

Can you give me some advice on tiling a bathroom? I'm fairly competent at DIY. I've never tiled before but it looks fairly straightforward.

Paul Graham, Dublin

A

If you are tiling an existing bathroom, remove all the old tiles, wallpaper, fiaky paint, loose material etc first. Next remove the sanitaryware, (wash basin, WC, shower enclosure). This is so the ware sits against the tiles when "nished. Leave the bath in place unless you are replacing it. Stabilise (seal) the walls using a pva adhesive (polybond). I would recommend painting the ceiling at this stage with paint that is suitable for bathrooms. Then measure the centre of all walls both horizontally and vertically.

There is one golden rule to use when tiling: stand back and make sure it looks good to the eye. If you are using a border tile it is vital that you place the tile at the best possible position to suit the window, the ware and the ceiling. The border tile may run below the sill, above the sill or even sit on the window sill; this all depends on the height your window is from the floor and the number of full tiles from the ceiling until your chosen border tile height.

It is best to have a full tile at the ceiling and put the cut tiles to the bottom of the wall because when you enter the bathroom you are more likely to look up than down. Also try not to have small cuts going into the corners. Mark the centre of the wall and place the edge of the tile on this mark, now measure the tiles up to the corner.

When you are working on a window wall, again centre the wall and measure the tiles going into the corner. Also bear in mind the cuts at the window openings. Try not to have a small cut tile around the window opening. Also remember to allow for the tile edging strips.

To get an idea of how the tiles will look on the wall you could map out the design on the floor first. Place the tiles on the floor, put a tile against the skirting board (skirting board acts as the ceiling) now place the tiles down from the skirting board using the tile spacers, put your border/pencil border in the required positions. Measure your bathroom from "oor to ceiling and transfer this measurement to your dry run. This will give you the height to fix a level timber batten (2in x 1in) on the wall to support the tiles while they are setting. (Most ceilings are 8ft high but do vary in different properties).

I prefer to 'butter' the tile. Using a small pointing trowel, you place adhesive on the tile itself in four-"ve equal dabs (four corners and the centre) approximately 25mm (1in) in from the edges. The reason for buttering is that some walls are uneven and this ensures the tile is properly stuck to the wall. Now place this tile at the starting point and press "rmly. Butter another tile and place this one on top of the "rst tile again pressing firmly. Don't forget the tile spacers. Proceed with the tiles vertically until you reach the ceiling.

You may have to adjust the batten slightly at this stage. Now get your spirit level and make sure the tiles are plumb (vertical). It will help to place a batten vertically against the tiles to keep them plumb. When tiling, it is advisable to use spacers in the vertical joints as well as the horizontals.

Remember always stand back and look at your work. You can always adjust tiles before they have set. When you have laid all the tiles, remove the horizontal batten and fill in the gap left at the floor with your cut tiles.

When you have finished laying the tiles clean them with a sponge and water. It is much easier to remove adhesive when soft than when it has set. It is advisable to let the tiles set for 24 hours, then remove the spacers before grouting.

To grout tiles, put approximately 25mm-50mm (1in-2in) of water into a bucket and add the grout, stirring until you achieve a creamy consistency. Do a small section at a time and work the grout into the joints with a squeegee until full. Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the grout begins to dry and then sponge the tiles clean . . . at the same time you can smooth the grout joints with your finger. When you are more con"dent you can try a larger area.

Always wash the tiles as you go. Generally, two washes with cold water will remove the majority of the grout. You will notice after washing a dust will form. Wash once more with hot water and when this has dried, polish the tiles with a soft cloth to bring a shine.

To do this job you will need the following: pointing trowel/notched trowel, spirit level, timber battens, tile cutter, tile nippers, hammer, steel nails/screws, sponge and cloths. Remember to use protective goggles and safety clothing when undertaking any building work.

-=-=-=-

WRITE TO US

If you have a building-/renovation-related query that you'd like Steve to help you with, email: doorstepdoctor@tribune. ie Steve Guerin is managing director of www. tradesmenireland. com, the one-stop website that will help you find a tradesman, a site for sale, a property to rent or buy and all the plant hire and machinery you need to complete your house build or renovation




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