EVERY capital city should have a flagship wine store, a shop that not only offers everything an oenophile could desire, but does it with style too. City centre wine merchants Berry Brothers and Mitchell & Son offer old-world charm, Jus de Vine is probably the best in range, but to date only Enowine in Monkstown and the IFSC have dared offer a bright modern face to wine retailing. This is all about to change with the opening of a new branch of the O'Briens chain in Sandyford Industrial Estate.
Situated in the nearly finished Beacon South Quarter centre, this is a huge (8,000sq ft) state-of-the-art, stylish wine shop offering an amazing range of beers, spirits and wines (going back to 1948).
Having such a huge amount of space allows for a few innovations; there is an upstairs gallery featuring the finest wines and spirits; a line of Enomatic tasting machines that allow customers choose from a selection of 70 wines to taste before they buy; there is also a wine bar where visitors can enjoy a glass of wine . . . again from a choice of 70. There is an admirably limited range of foods from the very best producers: cheeses and charcuterie from Sheridans, smoked salmon form Cavistons, coffee from Ariosa and artisan chocolates from l'Orge in Kenmare.
Opposite Dunnes Stores, with lifts down to the car-park, and seconds away from the M50, this will become a destination for wine-lovers everywhere.
O'Briens has 25 stores nationwide, largely concentrated in the greater Dublin area, and the O'Brien family is still very much involved at all levels of the company, ably assisted by David Whelehan, a man whose formidable palate is matched by his amazing energy. With a mouth-watering range of exclusive wines, and well-trained staff, O'Briens has revolutionised wine retailing in Ireland, making quality wine accessible to a far wider audience. This is the icing on the cake.
Henri Bourgeois Terre de Fumee, Coteaux de Giennois
Description Henri Bourgeois is one of the best producers in this part of the Loire. This wine, from a region close by, is better than many a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume. A fresh zingy crisp dry wine with mouthwatering green fruits.
Available from O'Briens ( 11.99down from 14.99) DDrink with ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta.
13/20
Ascheri Barbera d'Alba 'Fontanelle', Piedmont 2006 DDescription Lovely fresh piquant damson and cherry fruits (almost like umeboshi) with a cool clean style that gives it real character and personality.
Available from O'Briens ( 14.99, down from 17.99) DDrink with roast belly of pork with a salsa verde.
15/20
Pouilly-Fuisse De Fuisse Les Brules 2005
Description From another top producer under the O'Briens portfolio, a delicious rounded plump Chardonnay with subtle (and I do mean subtle) oak to give it a spicy edge.
Available from O'Briens ( 29.95).
Drink with hake baked in a creamy, herby sauce.
16/20
Chianti Classico Riserva Il Grigio, Tuscany 2003 DDescription Rich tobacco and cedar flavours mingle with ripe cherries and blackcurrants, all held together by a nice acidic touch.
Available from O'Briens ( 14.99 down from 17.99) DDrink with pasta with a rich meaty sauce.
14/20
|