But the island has long suffered from somewhat of a bad reputation, jokingly called 'Lanzagrotty', in reference to the many English and Irish bars advertising Premiership matches and pumping out disco hits, and the restaurants serving all-day breakfasts and fish and chips, with their ubiquitous laminated menus.

But to dismiss Lanzarote as a tacky, package-holiday destination is to do it a vast disservice. The most northerly of all the Canary Islands, it's far more sophisticated than Gran Canaria or Tenerife.

Covering over 307 square miles and lying 60 miles off the northwest coast of Africa, Lanzarote has been a popular holiday destination with Irish people for decades. Visitors fly into Arrecife, the island's capital, which sees 5.5 million people pass through it each year. From here, they generally head to one of the island's main resorts, Costa Teguise, Puerto del Carmen or Playa Blanca.

Puerto del Carmen, with 5km of sandy beaches, is the largest and most popular with families and revellers alike . . . at certain times of the day it's hard to navigate a route between the Quinnys and Bugaboos jostling for space on the path.

The New Town is home to the newest apartment developments, bars, discos and fastfood joints and is always a hive of activity. The nightlife here is pulsating but it's in the more traditional Old Town where you'll find some escape from the bustle . . . perfect for a quiet glass of wine.

If your expectations are only of sun, sea and sand, you may want to stop reading here but you'll be missing out on some of Lanzarote's most compelling sights. The island was hit by a series of eruptions between 1730 and 1736, destroying villages and farmland, and the cataclysmic effects of this six-year onslaught can be witnessed in a number of places, most significantly at the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya.

Timanfaya El Golfo, a little costal village, is home to one of Lanzarote's greatest natural wonders, El Lago Verde, a lake of vivid green water sitting in the centre of a volcano. Just down the coast you'll find Los Hervidores, where the waves crash down on eroded black lava, causing the water to hiss.

Culture and the Canaries might not go together in many people's minds but in Lanzarote the work and influence of abstract artist Cesar Manrique is to be found everywhere. Manrique was born in 1919 in Arrecife and spent time in Madrid and New York. When he returned to the island in his late 40s, living here until his death in 1992, he set about creating a series of buildings which reflect the island's landcape.

He was also passionate about protecting the island from the innate dangers of tourism. It was because of his persuasion that authorities banned advertising and built telephone and power cables underground and restricted development to tourist zones in which buildings could be a maximum of five storeys and were painted white.

In Timanfayu National Park lies his El Diablo restaurant, with glass walls looking out onto lava ledges, amid volcanic ash, where the restaurant grill was powered by the volcano's heat. The Jameos del Agua, near Arriet, is another must-visit. This underground cave and lagoon is transformed during weekend nights when it becomes a restaurant, bar and nightclub.

His most important legacy is the Manrique Foundation, outside the village of Tahiche. This was his home, which he was turning into a cultural centre at the time of his death, featuring his own works as well as those of Picasso and Miro. It's a surreal experience, where the house design fuses with the natural environment, built as it is on five very large natural volcanic bubbles.

Nor should Lagomar be missed. Manrique built this house, which was once owned by Omar Sharif, who allegedly lost it in a game of cards. There are no day trips here so best rent a car and follow the road towards Teguise, taking a small turn off to the right just before you get to Teguise. Plan this visit for a weekend and visit the Teguise Sunday market while you're there to stock up on fresh goat's cheese for a beachside picnic or a bottle of the island's sugarcane rum.

As a tax-free zone, there are excellent shopping possibilities here . . . perfume, alcohol, electronics, as well as local crafts and leather. Save money by stocking up on holiday essentials like sun creams and other toiletries once you get here. While in Puerto del Carmen, it's worth visiting Zara as prices are significantly lower than in Dublin.

When it comes to food, seek out native Canarian cuisine, which merges African and Spanish influences. Fish is everywhere and a traditional dish is fish served with papas arrugadas ('wrinkly potatoes' cooked, unpeeled, in salt water then baked dry) with a spicy mojo sauce.

Other specialties worth looking out for . . . but which are rarely available in the European-style restaurants . . . include gofio bread, pork ragout and rabbit with sweet black pudding.

Getting there Sunway operates a weekly charter service to Lanzarote year round from Dublin. Flights also operate from Cork, Shannon and Knock on selected dates. Seven nights B&B in the four-star Hotel Fariones including flights, transfers, accommodation and taxes starts from 750 per person sharing. Book online at www. sunway. ie or phone Sunway 01-2886828 Stay at The four-star Hotel Los Fariones has built a reputation as 'the'

FACTFILE

place to stay in Puerto Del Carmen. Bertie Ahern and Celia Larkin stayed here when on holidays in the '90s. Catering for families and mature holiday makers.

Situated just off the main strip, on the beach between the new town and the old town, the hotel has an outdoor heated freshwater pool and an additional outdoor children's seawater pool with a floodlit hard-surface tennis court, mini-golf and a sauna free of charge. The breakfast and lunch buffets are lavish with added touches of champagne and steak or fish cooked to order on an outdoor grill. Meals can be served in a beautiful outdoor area, overlooking the sea. Rooms are clean and spacious, with air conditioning and TVs and each has a balcony that overlooks the sea.

For young people looking to party for a week or two, try the sister Fariones apartments, located across the road.

Useful sites www. lanzarote. com www. discoverlanzarote. com

WHERE TO CATCH THE RAYS

CYPRUS
Average temperature: 27 degrees A four-and-a-half hour flight guarantees sunshine and, as it's out of season, there are great bargains at luxury hotels like the Almyra (www. almyra. com) and check out Sunway (01 2311888 and www. sunway. ie) for a variety of deals and packages.

MOROCCO
Average temperature: 25 degrees The fashion pack likes to visit here, out of season, when the hoi polloi have gone. Book into a riad, like the Riad Omar (www. riadomar. com). Try www. latedeals. ie for lastminute offers.

TUNISIA
Average temperature: 24 degrees Head to Hammamet, which has been likened to St Tropez because of its high-end bars, restaurants and boutiques. Sunway, again, have some good deals.

MALTA
Average temperature: 25 degrees Don't let the package-holiday image bias your opinion . . . the island is fascinating, with 6,500 years of English, Italian and Arabic culture. For an extensive range of beautiful villas see www. jamesvillas. ie.

SEVILLE AND ANDALUCIA
Average temperature: 21 degrees Southern Spain can be unbearably hot in summer but it's fabulous at this time of year. Aer Lingus fly direct or try www. lastminute. com for good deals.