The walk-ways around the house are perfect for a stroll or, if you prefer, there are tables overlooking the grounds where you can sit and have pre-/post-prandial drinks. From the front of the house, an obelisk is visible; built, we were told, to commemorate a daughter killed accidently by her father, the lord of the house, who mistook her for an intruder. Apparently, if you walk around it 25 times you will see the 'Lady in White'. We didn't try it out, we could barely crawl back to our room, never mind walk.

Desserts came in the form of a Castle Durrow dessert plate apiece: raspberry crumble, orange and white chocolate mousse, honeycomb ice cream on a homemade cookie and tiramisu. The ice cream stood out as a clear winner . . . the tiramisu seemed to be a tee-totaller as neither of us could taste any alcohol from it. After dessert, I'm afraid my tasting function retired from active service and slouched off to his room, happy yet tired, where it slept as soundly as it had slept in a long, long time.

Despite the gruelling journey we had to make to get there, a visit to Castle Durrow comes highly recommended, even if it is just for the restaurant, but if you can, stay a while and enjoy the comforts of the castle, the warm welcome and the respite from a life spent in boomtown.

ITALY is a treasure trove of exciting grape varieties, most of them unknown anywhere else in the wine world. Over the last decade, many of the reds have at last received international acceptance. More recently, we started to discover the white wines too.

In this column, we have taken a brief look at the excellent wines of Campania and Sicily in the south. Grape varieties such as Greco, Fiano, Falanghina, and Inzolia may not yet be household names, but I would strongly recommend that you seek them out if you have grown tired of Sauvignon and Chardonnay. I think I have probably done Pinot Grigio to death a bit. However, the north-east of Italy offers far more; I am very fond of Soave, and the example listed below will hardly break the bank.

Piedmont, in the north-western corner of Italy, has some of the most famous names in Italian red wines; Barolo, and its near neighbour, Barberesco, make some of the finest, majestic, long-lived and singularly different wines. At a less exalted level, there is a very attractive range of fresh reds made from an array of other varieties, including Barbera, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. But given its relatively cool climate, it should be no surprise that Piedmont also offers up some very stylish white wines. In recent years, there have been a number of excellent Chardonnays and Sauvignons; but that is hardly unique. Of more interest to the wine lover are the indigenous varieties, which include Cortese (which I usually find overpriced) and Arneis, which is capable of wines of real character.

Before or after their substantial meals, which are washed down with equally substantial red wines, the Piedmontese are very partial to a glass of lightly fizzy Moscato, either off-dry or sweet. Wine snobs will turn up their noses at these wines. After all, you can find the bestknown, Asti Spumante, in most supermarkets at under 10. I find them a great way to finish off a heavy meal. They are a far better partner to lighter desserts than most Champagnes.

Alpha Zeta Soave 2006
Description Light and zingy, with zesty fresh, pure crisp clean apple fruits
Available from 9.99 from Sweeney's, Hart's Corner, Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street
12/20

Cristina na Ascheri Langhe Arneis 2006
Description Touches of pineapple and mango in an otherwise fairly structured dry white wine. Lovely purity of fruit, and perfectly balanced acidity and fruit
Available from 12.99 from O'Briens
Drink with I would try out an organic roast chicken stuffed with lemon and garlic
14/20

Langhe Arneis 2006
Description Deliciously different wine with a hint of smoke, some cool pear fruits, and a lovely mineral streak.Classy dry wine
Available from 10.50 from Marks & Spencer
13/20

Cristina Ascheri Moscato d'Asti 2005
Available from 12.99 from O'Briens 14/20
Drink with I would be tempted to drink this alongside some grilled seafood . . . prawns would do very nicely
Description I adore Italian Moscatos. It is almost like drinking freshly-crushed grape juice, with lovely sweet fruits, backed up with a tangy balancing acidity, and a light fizz too
Drink with The ideal way to end a rich meal. Serve well chilled with fruit salads, tarts and other lighter desserts