Stewing tips

>> Cook a stew at a very low simmer on the hob or in an oven preheated to about 1500C (about 1300 fan) . . . if it boils rather than simmers the meat will toughen.

>> Stews seem to improve in flavour if made about 24 hours in advance.

>> Most stews freeze very well, so double up when making one and put half in the freezer.

>> A tablespoon or two of pearl barley can be delicious added to a lamb stew, such as Irish stew. It will add flavour and texture and have a thickening effect. And a tablespoon of tomato paste can often give a lamb or beef stew some extra flavour and colour.

>> A good casserole pot is so worth having if you make stews regularly. I love those made by Le Creuset and Chasseur.

>> Tins of cooked beans (like butter beans, haricot or cannellini beans) are invaluable for adding into meat stews, about 15 minutes towards the end of cooking.

PORK AND CHORIZO STEW WITH HARICOT BEANS
Serves 4-6
750g piece of boneless pork belly, skin removed
Olive oil
110g diced streaky bacon
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 tsp hot smoked paprika
225g chorizo, roughly chopped
1 tin chopped tomatoes
150ml red wine
300ml water
1 tin of haricot beans, drained and rinsed
2 tbsp chopped coriander
Heat the oven to 1600C/fan 1400C/gas 3.

Cut the pork belly into large chunks, about 3cm. Heat one tbsp oil in a large, ovenproof casserole and fry the pork in batches over a high heat until browned all over, then remove with a slotted spoon.

Add the streaky bacon and cook for two/three minutes until golden, then reduce the heat slightly and add the onion and garlic. Cook for two-three minutes until softened. Stir in the paprika and chorizo and cook for a minute or so.

Return the pork to the pan and tip in the tomatoes. Pour in the wine and water and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Cover with a lid and cook in the oven for about one- and-three-quarter to two hours, until the pork is lovely and tender.

Stir in the haricot beans and simmer on the hob for another 10-15 minutes, season to taste. Stir in the chopped coriander and serve with crusty bread.

GREEK LAMB, ONION AND BUTTER BEAN STEW
Serves 4-6
This is a rich and wonderful recipe from my mother-in-law, Darina, which I absolutely adore. We often make it at the cookery school. Like many other stews, it becomes even more delicious if made a day or two in advance. Serve with just a green salad, some mashed or boiled potatoes, or rice.

2 tbsp olive oil
1.1kg shoulder of lamb, cut into 4cm cubes
700g baby onions, peeled, or large onions, peeled and cut into quarters
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
2 x 400g tins of cooked butterbeans, drained, or 225g dried butter beans (see the handy hint for cooking instructions)
2 bay leaves
Generous sprig of fresh thyme
450ml (16fl oz) lamb or chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp coarsely chopped fresh parsley

Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized frying pan. Toss the meat, onions and garlic in the hot pan in batches until light golden, then transfer to a medium-large ovenproof casserole.

Drain the butter beans and add to the casserole with the bay leaves and thyme.

Pour in the stock, to come about halfway up the meat, and add some salt and pepper.

Bring to the boil and simmer for one to one-and-a half hours, either on a low hob or in an oven preheated to 1600C, gas 3, until all the ingredients are tender and juicy. Taste the stew . . . it may need more seasoning. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

Handy hint: If you are using dried butter beans, soak them in water for five-six hours or overnight. Drain and cover with fresh cold water and simmer in a mediumsized saucepan for 35-40 minutes until they are cooked through. Do not add salt because this will toughen the beans' skin.

ITALIAN BEEF STEW WITH PEA AND SPRING ONION CHAMP
Serves 6-8 Italy meets Ireland in this gutsy winter dish. The stew will only get better if made a day in advance.

1.5 kg stewing beef, cut into cubes
175g streaky bacon
3 tbsp olive oil
12 baby onions, peeled, or 2-3 medium onions, peeled and quartered
18 button mushrooms, left whole
3 carrots cut into quarters, or 12 baby carrots, scrubbed and left whole
1 tbsp chopped rosemary
1 tbsp chopped thyme
10 cloves of garlic, crushed or grated
425ml red wine
425ml chicken and beef stock
Salt and pepper
2 tbsp chopped parsley

Brown the beef and bacon in the olive oil in a hot casserole or heavy saucepan.

Remove the meat and toss the onions, mushrooms and carrots, one ingredient at a time, seasoning each time.

Put all these ingredients back in the casserole along with the herbs and garlic.

Cover with red wine and stock and simmer for one hour or until the meat and vegetables are cooked (this can also be cooked in an oven preheated to 1600C).

Sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve with pea and spring onion champ.

Pea and spring onion champ
Serves 6-8
1.5 kg potatoes, scrubbed, skins left on
100g butter
450g peas
75g spring onions, chopped
4 tbsp chopped parsley
Approx 500ml milk, (or if you want it really rich, use 3/4milk to 1/4 cream)
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, drain half of the water after five-10 minutes, and continue to cook on a low heat, avoiding stabbing the potatoes with a knife . . . if they are floury potatoes they will break up if you do. When they are cooked, drain all the water off, peel and mash with most of the butter while hot.

Meanwhile, put the milk in a saucepan with the peas and spring onion and boil for two-three minutes, until cooked.

Add the parsley and take off the heat; and add to the potatoes, keeping some of the milk back in case you do not need it all.

Season to taste and beat until creamy and smooth, adding more milk if necessary.

Serve piping hot with the remaining butter melting in the centre.

COQ AU RIESLING
Serves 4-6
1 chicken weighing approx 1.5kg
4 shallots
75g butter
100ml cream
1 egg yolk
1/2 litre Riesling
400ml chicken stock
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed or grated
Fresh parsley
1 tbsp plain flour
1 liqueur glass of cognac
150g button mushrooms
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
A little nutmeg
2 tbsp oil

Quarter the chicken. In a casserole, brown the chicken pieces in half the oil and butter for five minutes over a gentle heat. Season and add the finely chopped shallots, parsley and garlic, frying until brown. Pour over the cognac and flambe. Add the Riesling and the stock.

Simmer gently for 30 minutes. Slice the mushrooms, fry in the rest of butter and add to the casserole. A few minutes before serving mix the flour, cream and egg yolk and add to the chicken pieces, taking care not to allow it to boil. Adjust the seasoning and serve very hot with pasta or rice.

Johnny Cooke and his team at Cookes Restaurant in 14 South William Street in Dublin started these fun foodie-themed evenings a couple of years ago, offering diners course after course of delicious food with tutored wine-tastings.

Not surprisingly, they have been a huge success, and this autumn sees the scheduling of three new events:

>> Wild game banquet on Thursday 25 October >> Seafood and shellfish extravaganza on Thursday 1 November >> Spain Gourmetour on Thursday 8 November Price: 85 per head to including a specially paired wine per course. For further information and to make a booking, call 01 679 0536 or email cookes1@eircom. net

GOURMET NIGHTS AT COOKE'S Peppery watercress has long been touted as a superfood . . . Irish monks used to live on it and bread, considering it as a pure food for sages.

Teeming with antioxidants and Vitamins C, B1, B6, K and E, as well as iron and magnesium, it's often a key ingredient in vegetable detox drinks but it also has far more exciting culinary uses. Try it in scrambled eggs or an omelette and in fish cakes or in a fish pie. Classic watercress soup . . . served hot or cold . . . should be part of everyone's cooking repertoire and as an addition to salad or as a salad in its own right, it's absolutely delicious.

WATERCRESS SALAD WITH CORIANDER DRESSING A simple salad to be served as an accompaniment to fish cakes 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp chopped coriander A few large handfuls of watercress leaves, thicker stalks removed Mix together the olive oil, lemon juice and coriander and season to taste, adding more lemon juice if necessary. Drizzle over the watercress with just enough dressing to make the leaves glisten.