It offers better value than any other country at the lower end of the market, with some of the more expensive offerings competing quite happily with Pinot from Australia, New Zealand and North America.

However, the other grape variety offering real potential in Chile is Syrah or Shiraz . . . two names for the same grape variety. Syrah has its home in the Rhune Valley, and in the Northern Rhune in particular, where it makes some elegant, satisfying wines. Further south in France and Spain, the wines tend to be bigger, often quite burly and tannic, with a hallmark peppery edge. Thousands of miles away, Australia has been growing Syrah since the 1850s and the oldest Syrah vines in the world can be found here. The common conception is that all Aussie Syrah, or Shiraz, is big, fruity and packs a real punch but some of the cooler areas (Hunter Valley in particular) can make a much more restrained style of wine.

Chile is a newcomer to Syrah. There have been large plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenere for over a century, but very little Syrah. This is changing. Depending on the local climate, Chile seems able to produce just about any style, from cool and peppery to big and gutsy. Most lie somewhere in between.

Producers who lean towards the cooler Rhune style tend to call their wine Syrah; those who favour the bigger, rounder Aussie name theirs Shiraz. Below are four very different wines: the Casa Tamaya is a cooler style, the de Martino has a grippy structure, the Matetic exudes elegant class and the Santa Rita is a soft, lush example.

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Donnybrook Fair is holding a tutored Burgundy and Game dinner on Tuesday 23 October.
Tickets for the five-course meal, with Champagne beforehand, are /80 per person.

Contact Gavin or Andrew on (01) 614 4849 or email info@donnybrookfair. ie to book a place

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Casa Tamaya 2005 Reserve Syrah, LImari Valley

Description: Attractive, cool, peppery, supple damson fruits, with some dry but elegant tannins to finish off.

Available from Power & Smullen, Lucan; Donnybrook Fair; The Corkscrew; Fallon & Byrne ( 15.99).

Drink with lighter meats such as pork or cheese. Give it a go with a stuffed roast loin of pork.

13/20

De Martino Legado Syrah 2006, Choapa Valley

Description: Young but promising with chunky, concentrated, just-ripe damsons and a fair kick of minerals and tannin on the finish.

Drink now or keep a year.

Available from Fallon & Byrne; Donnybrook Fair; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Claudio's and other independents nationwide ( 15.49).

Drink with something substantial like roast pheasant.

14.5/20

Santa Rita Shiraz Reserva 2005, Maipo Valley

Description: Sweet and spicy with coconut and cinnamon to back up the soft ripe jammy fruits.

Available from Tesco (12.99).

Drink with spare ribs in a spicy marinade.

12/20

Matetic EQ Syrah 2006 San Antonio Valley

Description: Wonderful pure savoury cherry and damson fruits in a full-bodied but perfectly balanced wine. Great length and style.

Available from Superquinn (32.99).

Drink with roast duck.

17/20