In truth, Chardonnay is one of the two great white grape varieties, along with Riesling. Semillon and Chenin Blanc may shine occasionally (although mainly with sweet wines) but these are the only two capable of taking on extra complexity and depth as they gracefully move into old age.

On its home turf of Burgundy, Chardonnay produces some of the world's greatest dry white wines; venerable names such as Puligny-Montrachet and Chablis may never put Chardonnay on the label, but all are made from that variety. New-world Chardonnay has gone through a range of styles from rich and buttery and an exuberant tropical style, to something lighter and zestier in recent years.

Most producers still retain their best fruit for their premium Chardonnay, leaving the lesser-quality material for the un-oaked version. However, un-oaked Chardonnay has no veil to hide behind. The quality, either way, is usually obvious. It is not easy to make but, done well, it is one of my favourites.

At a recent tasting of Chilean wines, I concentrated on the Chardonnays. Chile is following the trend for lighter, cleaner Chardonnay and those below were my favourites.

Fans of Chardonnay should note that one of the greatest exponents of the grape, Jacques Carillon of Domaine Carillon in Puligny-Montrachet, will join forces with Paul Avril of Clos des Papes in Chateauneufdu-Pape for a series of wine-tastings in Kelly's Resort Hotel in Rosslare. Call (053) 9132114 for further details.

>> UK wine writer Matthew Skinner, author of The Juice 2008, will be tasting and discussing wines from his latest book in Fallon & Byrne tomorrow at 6.30 pm. Tickets 20.

Booking advised on 01 4721010.

De Martino Lagado Chardonnay 2006,
Limari Valley
Description fresh, nicely textured Chardonnay with plump soft tropical fruits and some subtle toasted nuts.
Available from Fallon & Byrne; Donnybrook Fair; Bin No9, Clonskeagh; Claudio's, George's Street Mall; Vinodirecto. com for 15.49
Drink with lobster salad with mango.
13/20

Anakena Ona Reserva Chardonnay 2005,
Casablanca Valley
Description: Delicious fragrant lemon-scented wine with excellent purity.
Available from The Corkscrew; Jus de Vine, Caprani's, Ashford; Next Door, Arklow; The Cellars Wine Warehouse for 14.95.
Drink with Scallops with ginger and spring onion.

14/20

Casa Tamaya Chardonnay Reserve 2007, Limari Valley

Description From one of my favourite producers, a captivating, perfectly balanced Chardonnay with classy apple fruits, hints of vanilla and a long dry finish.
Available from Power & Smullen; Uncorked; Fallon & Byrne; Hole in the Wall for 13.95
Drink with Grilled sole with a herby, buttery, lemon sauce
14/20

Emiliana Chardonnay Marsanne Reserve 2006, Casablanca Valley
Description Great wine and great price too; lovely refreshing melons and pears with zesty crisp notes of lime.
Available from selected stores for 10-10.95
Drink with A great aperitif, or with lighter seafood.

12.5/20