Last week they held a tasting of 'Regional Heroes' wines with a tradition and, more importantly, a sense of place.

These are wines that should offer a distinctive set of flavours that set them apart from the rest of the bunch.

This week I have chosen two Cabernets and two Shiraz, each with a unique style . . . perfect evidence that Australia has more to offer than a simple 'glass of sunshine'.

Margaret River in western Australia makes a unique brand of Cabernet, often with a bit of Merlot thrown in. The cooling winds and warm days are responsible for an elegant ripeness combined with a mint/eucalyptus edge.

Some of you will be familiar with the wines of Cape Mentelle, Xanadu or Cullen, all good examples, but the Stella Bella offers real value in an area that often has some very fancy prices. The deep red 'terra rossa' soils of Coonawarra in south Australia also make for a beguiling style of Cabernet.

Moving on to Shiraz, I came across the excellent wines of Grant Burge, one of the largest landholders in the Barossa Valley.

Here the classic big rich style of Barossa Shriaz is tempered with a little restraint, but not too much . . . this is still a hedonists dream. The Uncut Shiraz, from Gemtree, a producer new to this country, is a different kettle of fish. From the McLaren Vale, this has an elegant liveliness to complement the savoury plum fruits.

If you fancy doing your own Regional Heroes tasting, Ely wine bars are offering you the opportunity. All three Ely wine bars are running a Regional Heroes promotion for the month of November, featuring 11 wines from the various regions. All are available by the bottle or glass, giving you the chance to taste your way around Australia. There is also the opportunity to win a case of wine.

Stella Bella Cabernet Merlot 2003, Margaret River
Description: A wine with real finesse, filled with cassis and blackcurrants with a minty edge, finishing with some drying tannins.
Available from Gibney's, Malahide; Mortons, Galway and Dublin ( 22).
Drink with slow-roasted shoulder of lamb stuffed with anchovies and garlic . . . this is a wine that needs food.
15.5/20

Gemtree Uncut Shiraz 2005, McLaren Vale
Description: A sneaky wine that at first seems lost amongst the big-alcohol bruisers. But I went back and was delighted with the subtle cool flavours that last in the mouth.
Available from Swan's on the Green, Naas; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Deveney's, Rathmines; Bin No 9, Goatstown ( 21.95)
Drink with grilled lamb cutlets served pink.
15.5/20

Rosemount Show Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Coonawarra
Description: a delectable silky wine with gentle sweet cassis fruits. Not a wine to keep, but hard to resist right now.
Available from Widely available (21.99).
Drink with something fairly simple . . . a plain roast of beef would be good.
15.5/20

Grant Burge 'Filsell' Old Vine Shiraz 2004, Barossa Valley

Description: dense, smooth and hugely concentrated wine with dark chocolate and spice to complement the rich plums ( 22).
Available from Martins, Dublin; Goose, Dublin; Egans, Drogheda; Wicklow Wine Company; Macs, Limerick;
Mill Wine Cellar, Maynooth; Wine Bottle, Dunshaughlin.
Drink with barbecued ribs or a rare steak.
16/20