"I've heard,' announced Martin Corbett, the expansive manager of (and chef Ross Lewis' partner in) Chapter One, "that there's a recession on, but it must be over on the southside, because there's no sign of one in here." Corbett hails from the old school of Irish hospitality and I'd defy anyone not to be charmed by his hail-fellow-well-met bonhomie. There is nothing remotely up itself about the ambience of Chapter One, despite its stellar reputation and Michelin star.

On a glorious spring lunchtime, the most sumptuous basement in Dublin was full to capacity with savvy punters taking advantage of a great bargain. There's the usual mix of suits and civilians that's to be found in all of the capital's decent restaurants since they got sense and started offering some good deals. Ross Lewis, considered by many to be the best chef in the city, is offering two courses of his excellent food for €30, and three for €37.50. It's an opportunity that should not be missed by anyone with an appreciation of quality.

Chapter One is a chic, relaxed restaurant that goes about its business in a friendly, confident manner. Situated in the basement of the Irish Writer's Museum on Parnell Square, Chapter One first opened its doors in 1992 and has been doing things right pretty much ever since.

The lunch menu offers a choice of five starters and five mains, with a €10 supplement for the famous charcuterie trolley.

My cousin is a man of plain tastes and we had been concerned that he might not find anything on the menu to suit. Our worries were unfounded: a vibrant green Leek and Potato soup, given the Michelin treatment with a herbed chicken dumpling and a slick of truffle oil, was just the job. He who must be obeyed chose the Black Pudding and Veal Sweetbread Boudin, Sauté Queen Scallops, Sauce Soubice – the concentrated meaty taste juxtaposed with the sweetness of the miniature scallops and the subtle onion infused sauce was a hit. The Charcuterie comprised Wild Game Terrine with Organic Cranberry Jelly, a morsel of the Black Pudding Boudin, Farmyard Jelly, Foie Gras and Ice Wine Verjus and flavour-packed Smoked Venison served with a watercress and hazelnut salad and toasted sourdough.

I suspect I am not alone in being unable to resist any dish with purple sprouting broccoli listed as one of the ingredients and so opted for the Cod, Brandade of Smoked Haddock, Watercress Puree, Light Béarnaise, Purple Sprouting Broccoli. Very good it was too, substantial, full of flavour, simple and well-judged. Spiced Daube of Beef, served with Parsnip Puree, Winter Vegetables and Pepper Cream is cooked for 19 hours and was the melt in the mouth epitome of slow food. Someone mentioned treacle, but I'm not sure if that was an ingredient or a description of the intensity of flavour that results from this languorous process. Either way, HWMBO (who was a tad stingy when it came to sharing) has been talking about it ever since and wondering about the possibility of recreating it at home. Blanquette of Veal with Leeks and Baby Mushrooms was an impeccable execution, much appreciated by the cousin.

As we gave consideration to pudding, Corbett landed back into the room. 'Her name is Sinéad,' he announced and proceeded to lead us in a spirited rendition of Happy Birthday – everyone joined in. Poor Sinéad looked morto.

I wasn't quick enough to nab a forkful of the Caramelised Winter Fruit Tart with Rum Ice Cream but the speed with which it disappeared tells its own story. We shared a feisty Bellingham Blue, gouda-style Coolea and luscious Brilliat Savarin from a concise cheese selection that attracts a €5 supplement. They were all in perfect condition.

This is not 'look at me' food – there are neither pyrotechnics nor molecular gastronomy in Lewis' kitchen, nor any cheffy nonsense. Rather it is food that is imbued with a low-key confidence in the quality of the ingredients (for the most part local and seasonal) and the respect with which they are treated. The bill for three, with one bottle of a decent Lugana San Benadetto, Zenato at €42 (there is a very serious wine list for those so inclined) and supplements for the charcuterie and cheese, came to €162 before service, for which we added €20. That's a more than fair price for a class offering such as this.

Chapter One

18-19 Parnell Square,

Dublin 1. (01) 8732266

Rating: 5/5