ELIZABETH DAVID'S CHRISTMAS

Compiled by Jill Norman; Michael Joseph

"If I had my way – and I shan't," said Elizabeth David, "my Christmas Day eating and drinking would consist of an omelette and cold ham and a nice bottle of wine at lunchtime, and a smoked-salmon sandwich with a glass of champagne on a tray in bed in the evening."

Devotees of the legendary David may already have this compilation of 150 of her Christmas recipes, as it was first published in 2003. For anyone preparing to host Christmas this slim volume is a definite mood-setter. There is nothing trendy – just a slew of classic and rather old-fashioned recipes to help the cook charged with Christmas responsibilities through several days' worth of meals and snacks, with advice on how to simplify and reduce the amount of time spent in preparation and cooking. David was a single woman, but she had empathy aplenty for the woman (men don't feature) having to provide for "a lot of children or a big family (who has) no alternative. The grisly orgy of spending and cooking and anxiety has to be faced".

DELIA SMITH'S CHRISTMAS

Delia Smith; BBC

You can always – but always – rely on Delia. In Deliaworld preparations for The Big Day start some time back in October, but it's too late for all that now. You can just flick through the early pages and get to the nub of things with her terrifying schedule of the countdown to Christmas dinner in the chapter entitled 'The Last 36 Hours'.

These pages in my copy are reassuringly splattered and I can testify to the success of her turkey roasting method and, of course, her traditional bread sauce (featured in Cooking Clever, p32-33). Her cumberland sauce is pretty good too.

"As a veteran of many a Christmas campaign," advises Delia, "my… message to you is not to worry. You will be pressured, you will get grumpy, but it will all be worth it."

SARAH RAVEN'S COMPLETE CHRISTMAS FOOD AND FLOWERS

Sarah Raven; Bloomsbury

This gorgeous book comes endorsed by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and the photos would inspire the most jaded Christmas veteran to pull up his or her socks and stop being so bloody lazy! Sarah's countdown starts in August with the harvesting of alium heads – a good third of the book is taken up with beautiful boho-chic flower arrangements – and proceeds apace to the turkey and beyond. Many of the recipes in the book would be useful at other times of the year too.

There's no doubt that plenty of work goes into achieving a Christmas as stylish as Sarah's, but as she says herself: "I've learned that a light and effortless effect is rarely achieved by wafting in thinking wouldn't it be nice… There are several stages to a good Christmas… a long gentle build… then a sparkly opening... wreath and table-centre making... followed by the big Ta-ra! of Christmas Day... and then a refreshing, cooler after Christmas week... a time for simpler food and lots of delicious leftovers."

THE PERFECT CHRISTMAS

Anthea Turner; Virgin Books

Plenty of people have a thing about perky Anthea Turner and her perfect housewife schtick, but I'm giving her the benefit of the doubt and guessing that she has the post-modern wit to be laughing all the way to the bank. I suspect this book is given more often as a joke than with serious intention, but despite the rather nauseating tone and some ideas (or Top Tips as Anthea likes to call them) that I for one will not be stealing (I just don't see myself settling down to create a Family Christmas Scrapbook to record the highlights of our celebrations year by year – I'd rather stick pins in my eyes) there are plenty of decent basic recipes and some attractive decorating and wrapping ideas, and instructions on making your own crackers, which could be fun for the kids. This is Martha Stewart, British-style. Take a deep breath, buy into it and Christmas is bound to be just super.

THE CHRISTMAS BOOK

Sheherazade Goldsmith; Dorling Kindersley

This tome promises to help the reader "discover a simpler, greener Christmas (with) hand-crafted gifts and cards, natural decorations and traditional recipes". The lovely Sheherazade is the UK's number one poster girl for all that is green and eco-friendly (she is married to environmental activist – and very rich chap – Zac Goldsmith).

There are templates for hot-water-bottle covers and felt slippers, instructions on how to make a willow wigwam and grow mistletoe, recipes for all the usual Christmas basics, some gorgeous decorations that would be a great boost to any teacher's repertoire (check out the beyond-cute peg doll tree angel), and a slew of edible gifts (preserved lemons are a great idea) and decorations. There are also some recipes for leftovers – I like the look of the ones for winter pilaf and bread-and-butter panettone.

NIGELLA CHRISTMAS

Nigella Lawson; Chatto & Windus

I love the way that Nigella embraces the kitsch of Christmas so wholeheartedly. The cover is gaudier than we are used to – Nigella is dressed in a Christmas-tree palate of red and green – and this sets the scene for the recipes to be found inside. I'd defy anyone not to be able to sort themselves out for the whole season with this book. There are chapters on cocktails and mass catering, stress-free suppers and the main event (with plenty of alternatives to turkey). As you'd expect there's plenty on Christmas baking and sweet treats, and a selection of edible presents.

As usual with Nigella, the recipes are pretty straightforward and within the competency of anyone with the discipline to follow a recipe. Christmas is probably the time when Nigella's cheerful approach to excess and be damned is most appropriate – give in gracefully.