When the Libeskind-designed Grand Canal Theatre finally opens next week, it won't be a moment too soon for the restaurateurs who have been biding their time in premises along Hanover Quay for the past couple of years. Ely, Herbstreet, Riva and Milano have had to get by primarily on lunch trade, with some modest after-work business as gravy, and it is to their credit that they have stuck it out patiently (presumably helped by rent concessions) and continued to offer decent choice and quality. The four eateries complement each other well – their offerings do not duplicate and it would be a fussy diner indeed who would not find something to please amongst them.

For all that has been written about the various controversies in which the DDDA continues to be embroiled, it will come as something of a shock to anyone who has not set foot in the south docklands area for a few years to see just how much has been achieved there. I'm guessing that will include a large proportion of the ticketholders for the Bolshoi Ballet's opening performances in a building that is a proper Dublin landmark.

The discussion forums frequented by architects currently host some lively debate about the success of the docklands development as a city community: take away the lawyers and there might not be much left, especially at weekends, say some. But recent research revealed that it is the quarter of Dublin in which rental property is most sought-after (all those Google and Facebook employees like to live close to where they work) and there can be little doubt that the area will ultimately be lauded as a regeneration success, even if it will take significantly longer than originally envisaged for all the developments contemplated to be finished and occupied.

I first visited Riva soon after it opened in the late spring of 2008. I liked it then and I like it now.

We were three for lunch on a freezing February Monday. The waiter who greeted us was the same one who had served us when we were there two years previously – something of an achievement in itself. His name is Kieron/Ciaran and he stands out from the panoply of Dublin restaurant staff that I've encountered recently for a friendly (but not too friendly) manner and the kind of intuition that every good waiter needs.

A Lunch Express offers a plate of pasta or risotto for €9.95. On the à la carte, which has more interesting choices, there's a choice of five starters and 15 mains. None of us was particularly hungry so we opted to share a plate of Antipasti Misto (€12.90) – a decent array of meats, olives, peppers, tomatoes and artichokes that was a more than ample portion. Alternatives included a Honey and Mustard Glazed Pork Belly, Chicken Liver Crostini and Cheesy Leek and Pearl Barley Soup.

The main-course offering is a tad carb-heavy. Of the 15 on offer, eight are either pasta or risotto. On the day we visited, there was a fish special of cod with spinach, and the other choices included lamb shank, confit duck and beef bourguignon. Hearty food is the order of the day – I'd like to see some lighter options. That said, we liked our selections very well. Felim's Seafood Risotto with Tomato and Basil (€15.50) was a straightforward dish and none the worse for that – tasty and generous. Paul's Beef Lasagne (€14) was a trencherman portion that he didn't finish but praised nonetheless. My Crab Spaghetti Aglio-Olio (€15.50) was excellent, although a lighter hand with the olive oil would have been more waistline friendly.

Riva doesn't appear to be big on puddings – I guess you wouldn't really have room after all that pasta. We passed anyway (I think we could have had a brownie) and went straight to very good coffees.

With a couple of glasses of wine apiece (we liked the generosity of offering a fine Super Tuscan that happened to be open for only €7 a glass), our bill before service came to €106.30.

Riva will have pre- and post-theatre specials from next week. This is a good spot, smart yet relaxed, that is worth checking out. In the summer, people will be fighting for the tables outside.

Riva, 1 Hanover Quay, Dublin 2, 01-6753577. Rating: 4/5