It's been three years since Lansdowne Road was torn down to make way for its new, shinier, brighter incarnation, Aviva Stadium. It has cost €410m, it has excited sports fans around the country, it has intrigued passengers on DARTs who have witnessed its lengthy and impressive construction but finally, this forthcoming Friday, Aviva will finally have its official opening ceremony.
You can see the delight on deputy operations manager Mick Davoren's face as he shows off the stadium's special features – including the home-team ice pool and hydrotherapy pool for post-match rehab (said to speed up recovery by six days), the state-of-the-art physio and medical room with on-site X-ray facilities, changing room with giant screen for video playback at half time and extensive astro-turf warm-up room. He's quick to reassure that the away team have all of this too… just not the pools.
Spread out over the four levels of the stadium you have general seating on Level 1 and Level 4, while Level 2 and 3 are reserved for premium-level seats including boxes and media arenas.
There's plenty of extra space between rows so people can move freely without upsetting their neighbours. At Level 1 you're practically on the pitch, in the middle of it all; up in the gods on Level 4 the view is fabulous too. Mick explains that the pitch "looks great because the grass is watered with rainwater that we collect in giant tanks under the stadium, and according to our groundsman grass much prefers rainwater to tap water".
With 59 different bar and food outlets you are unlikely to have to scramble for a pint or a bite. And it's not just burger, chips and pies available, there's a wok station and oyster bar too. The 29 bars, meanwhile, can serve up 2,000 pints a minute, and if Giovanni Trapattoni or Declan Kidney's sides are putting on performances worth celebrating in style, there is a champagne and seafood bar on site (where we might some day catch a glimpse of Roy Keane munching on, say, a prawn sandwich).
For music fans, there'll be the opportunity to check out the stadium's acoustics when Canadian crooner Michael Bublé plays two gigs at the stadium in September, both of which sold out in minutes.
Stadium director Martin Murphy gives an idea of the logistics involved in completing the stadium in three years. "We had over 5,000 construction workers on site and 2,000 people working off site," he says.
"During the construction we were lucky enough to have had very few major setbacks. We lost time during the electricians' strike and the bad winter weather, when about 60% of the workforce simply could not make it to the site. But despite that, the project managed to stay on schedule. There were a host of highlight moments for me during the construction: when the concrete shell first went up; when the first piece of steel was hoisted in; watching the roof being completed; seeing the seats go in, and finally when the pitch was sealed. The facilities now in the completed stadium are second to none. We even have a few bells and whistles that are unique to us, such as the hydrotherapy pools.
"The enhanced network of access and routes should make it easier for spectators to access and exit the stadium, while relieving congestion on adjoining neighbourhoods. These new routes include underpasses that allow the level-crossing gates for the Dart to be left permanently closed on match days, so the train service is not affected. No doubt it will take a little bit of getting used to for visitors but I am confident they will be impressed."
Seamus and his wife Elvia live on Havelock Square in the home that Seamus has lived in since 1963. Seamus has led a very interesting life – working as a missionary in the Philippines with the Redemptorists before moving to America to study for a doctorate in anthropology and sociology. After that he spent some time teaching before going on to work for the IDA until his retirement in 1997.
Seamus is a very active member of the local community and has spent many years involved with the various local residents' committees. (He is a former chairman of the Bath Avenue District Residents Association, Badra.) He feels strongly about the redevelopment of Lansdowne Road. "I remember back in 2003 going to a meeting with Philip Browne, chief executive of the IRFU, and other members of Badra to discuss the plans for the redevelopment of the stadium," says Seamus. "We told him at the time that we were strongly opposed to the plan, but he assured us that nothing would be done that would upset the local residents. He was later quoted in the Irish Times stating that the wishes of the local residents would never be infringed upon in order to further the redevelopment of the stadium… or something to that effect anyway. Needless to say, we learned over the years to come that this promise was not kept.
"I was very involved in the planning board's 10-day oral hearing in relation to the planning permission for the new stadium. The hearing took place at the Gresham Hotel in Dublin in December 2006. This was an opportunity for the residents to voice their concerns and objections. After 10 days of detailed argument, the inspector, put in place by An Bord Pleanála, came to his informed conclusion that the redevelopment proposal should be rejected.
"Needless to say, a few weeks later we were all horrified to learn that planning permission had been granted by An Bord Pleanála regardless. Clearly the oral hearing had all been a farce.
"Then the developers came in and started waving money around, offering compensation to some local residents. As you can imagine this caused a rift among many who felt they got nothing while a neighbour did well. It was very sad to see a once-tight community bitterly divided. Then, once the construction began on the new stadium, we had to put up with noise pollution and terrible dust. I know at least one of my neighbours had to be rehoused for health reasons because of the dust.
"Now that the new stadium is finished," continues Seamus, "I don't object to the design but I think it is just far too big for the site; it should have been built out in Abbotstown. It dominates the landscape here and it dominates my line of vision.
"One of the main arguments for redeveloping the stadium here was because of the history associated with Lansdowne Road and the name. But now it's called Aviva – so it could be anywhere. I also have an issue with the lights being left on in the stadium after hours, causing light pollution and wasting energy. This is John Gormley's constituency so he should be up in arms about that."
Jonathan and Sheana live in Havelock Square with their two children Isabelle (6) and Arthur (4). They moved there 3½ years ago and love it. "It's such a friendly neighbourhood," says Sheana. "We are always out in the square playing with the kids. And when concerts were held in the old stadium there was a tradition in the square that everyone came with barbecues, chairs and rugs and we would all sit out and have a bit of a party. I can't wait for all that to kick off again."
"We couldn't get over how well-managed the construction of the new stadium was," says Jonathan. "We were hardly affected by it at all. In fact, we just enjoyed the process of watching it go up. The kids loved the cranes. I had a chance to take a tour and I have to say I was blown away by it. The sheer scale of the stadium is breathtaking. When I was up in the stands looking down at the pitch, where these enormous machines were working away, it felt like I was looking down on a collection of Tonka trucks in a sandpit. There are some very impressive eco features too such as the rainwater collection tanks – the water from which is then used as 'grey' water to water the pitch and flush the toilets.
"The transparent design makes the stadium inclusive. If we were looking onto a solid block wall, we'd feel shut out and alienated but the see-through design cleverly has the reverse effect. We feel a part of it."
"I think it is really organic-looking," adds Sheana. "In the middle of the build it looked like a giant rollercoaster and now it looks like something out of Cocoon. It's very dramatic, with the juxtaposition of the low-lying Victorian cottages of the square and then the enormous spaceship-like stadium behind."
"I think people who live in the area have the stadium in their DNA," interjects Jonathan. "There has been a stadium on this site since 1876 and I think it is a real source of pride. Certainly I think it is something to be very proud of now. It's a real architectural landmark for the country and we are already seeing tourists wandering into the square, cameras clicking away. It's going to be a real addition to the tourist trail."
Chef and restaurateur Kevin Arundel is a well-known figure on the Dublin dining scene. Having earned his culinary stripes at L'Ecrivain, Number 10 Longfields and the Schoolhouse, Kevin is once again making a name for himself with his latest gastropub venture – the Chophouse, on Shelbourne Road.
In the kitchen he has chef Conor Dempsey, previously of Dax, winning over the restaurant critics with his lip-smacking dishes featuring the likes of tuna sashimi with soft quails' eggs and pickled cucumber in a teriyaki glaze; ballotine of suckling pig on toast; daube of beef pie; and slow-roast belly of Old Spot pig with fondant potato and apple compote.
The Chophouse opened its doors just four months ago in the old Shelbourne House premises. Traditionally, of course, this would have always been a busy spot on match days and Kevin is hoping that it will be the same for him.
"Having spent eight years at the Schoolhouse I know the area well and love it," he says. "I'm a huge rugby fan and would never have missed a big match at Lansdowne Road. When we were making the decision to open our gastropub, this premises, with its proximity to the stadium, was a huge pull for me.
"I think there will be 20-odd big-match days a year at the stadium and the thousands of people that they will bring to the area will be big business for me and everyone in the area; I imagine it will account for about 20% of my annual turnover.
"We have big plans for match days – on those days the place will be less full-restaurant and more upmarket bar, serving food. We have a licence to serve alcohol out the front so we'll set up a full bar and serve barbecue-style fare – the kind of tasty food you'd want with your pint before the match; perhaps dry-aged beef sandwiches and that kind of thing. We will have a big TV out front too. The night before will also be busy, with lots of visitors staying close by. So we will offer a full restaurant service those nights. We have a few bookings for special corporate parties in our private room upstairs already.
"Personally, I can't wait for the new stadium to open. Apart from bringing much-needed new business into the area, I think it's a wonderful piece of architecture; it's great to have a world-class stadium for overseas visitors."
Sunday Tribune sports journalist Gerard Siggins lives in O'Connell Gardens with his wife Martha and children Jack (19), Lucy (16) and Billy (12). Ger is something of an expert on the history of Lansdowne Road having just written a book, co-authored with Malachy Clerkin, entitled Lansdowne Road: The Stadium, The Matches, The Greatest Days (O'Brien Press).
"It's not a narrative history of the stadium," explains Ger. "Instead we chose to focus in on about 40 of the really big moments and historic landmarks in the stadium's life, stretching as far back as 1874.
"So much went on in Lansdowne Road over the years – from athletics and lacrosse to baseball, cycling, concerts and even a spell of American football about 20 years ago. That was the brainwave of a wealthy Irish-American who thought he could bring the game to Ireland – but it never really took off. Possibly the most unusual use of the stadium was a 10-night special performance of Cossack dancing and horse-riding which took place in the 1920s – and was a huge success.
"I researched the period in the stadium's history up to the '70s and then Malachy picked up the ball, as it were, from there, interviewing all the Irish sporting greats. ?There are so many great stories.
"Lansdowne Road has always played a part in my life, and long before I wrote a book about it or even got my first job as a sports journalist. I grew up here on its doorstep, then spent a few years out renting, and then moved back to the area with my wife after we got married. When I was growing up, the stadium gates were always open – as kids we used to play there every day practically. We would play hide and seek under the stands, running around where we shouldn't and trying to kick a ball around the main pitch before we got kicked off.
"We used to earn a few pennies bringing oranges out to the rugby players at half time.
I loved that. For years I went to every single match and no doubt that played a big part in my subsequent career.
"I did feel a moment of nostalgia when I heard the stadium was to be demolished but, to be honest, at that stage it had become something of a going joke among visiting journalists. It was definitely long past its sell-by date.
"I'm a big fan of the new stadium. It dominates the view from the back window of our kitchen and bedroom. Initially we were concerned about how it might affect our light, but as it's mostly a transparent structure it's even a bit of an improvement on that front, compared to the old stadium. I like the design, and I love the way it kinks down at our end. It reminds me of a bedpan!"
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