Whoever the architect of the grandiose staircase that is at the centre of Pinot's in the Sandyford Industrial Estate (sorry, I mean the Beacon South Quarter) – formerly home to the Tiger casualty that was South Bar and Grill – was, he or she probably did not envisage that in the late summer of 2010, many of the people hobbling their way to the bistro downstairs would be tracksuit-wearing patients coming from having their limbs fixed at the Beacon Hospital across the road. The original drawings (circa 2003 I'm guessing) probably featured elegant couples in glamorous designer clothes, congratulating themselves on their very good fortune to be living in such a place, at such a time. When the opulent space was occupied by South there were certainly moments such as this, though not enough to keep the show on the road. How times have changed.

These days, restaurants are grateful for whatever business comes their way, and I doubt very much if Thomas Haughton gives a fig who his punters are (or what ailments they have), so long as they are coming across his threshold. Pinot's is an all-day offering – no doubt to facilitate people who work in the vicinity – opening for breakfast and going all the way through to dinner. On the upper street level, there is a café with a more casual offering, which is presumably busy during the day. Unfortunately, on the Thursday night that we visited, the lack of customers in the downstairs bistro was painful – despite the 'can't miss it' signage affixed to the side of the building that surmounts the restaurant. And Pinot's is a mighty big space to fill.

Haughton was previously the chef at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum, where he had many fans. Bills at Harvey Nix had a tendency to go exponential, in part due to Haughton's fondness for expensive ingredients and elaborate preparation, and in part due to the more-ishness of the cocktails. His new menu at Pinot's evidences a degree of cutting his cloth to suit straitened times and my immediate impression was that I liked its simpler construction better.

There's both a set dinner (priced at €24 for two courses and €28 for three) and an à la carte menu – we opted for one of each. From the set menu, I chose the Crisp Brandade of Cod, Saffron Hollandaise Sauce, Poached Hen Egg followed by the Sauté Saddle of Rabbit, Mushroom Tapenade, Shallot Purée, Cocotte Purée. Brandade is having a bit of a moment these days – cropping up on every second menu that I encounter. This version was very good, the fish mixture coated in crispy Japanese breadcrumbs and the hollandaise excellent. The bunny had been formed into a neat sausage shape and the elements of the dish came together well, although I'm invariably disappointed by the blandness of rabbit meat and this was no exception.

From the à la carte, Felim chose the Ballotine of Duck and Foie Gras, Cherry Compote and Pain d'Épices Cracker (€12) and then the Pan-Fried Veal Liver, Potato Rosti, Black Pudding and Onion Lyonnais (€18.90). The starter looked pretty and was a perfectly adequate dish without being memorable. The veal tasted unpleasantly strong – and we are both people who like big flavours – although the accompaniments were good. The liver was abandoned after a few mouthfuls.

From the à la carte menu we shared a Baked Pistachio Frangipane, Chocolate Mousse, Confit Pear.

"God that's rich," said Felim after his first mouthful, "I'm glad I'm only having half of it."

Rich, granted, but also utterly delicious. Beautiful to look at too.

With four glasses of wine, our bill came to €84.70 before service which, by the way, was excellent – although with as few customers as there were it would have been shocking if it had been anything but. When we departed at 9.30pm, dinner having taken precisely one hour from start to finish, we were the last to leave.

PINOT'S, Beacon South Quarter, Sandyford Industrial Estate, Co Dublin (01) 2936938. Rating: 3/5