Vegetables for me were a labour of love when I was growing up on our farm in Wicklow. From the planting, the care, the harvesting, the blanching and the freezing to the selling at the local country market, I realised very early on that the humble vegetable was a high priority for its contribution to the family income and the family dinner table.
So I never take vegetables for granted and it irks me when I am served the usual trio of steamed cauliflower, mangetout and broccoli slathered in butter as a side dish in restaurants. Expecially when, with just a little bit more effort, it's possible to create a show-stopping dish based around greens.
My eyes light up with the array of vegetables available at the markets in Italy, from tomatoes to the cardi, or cardoons, which look like two-metre-high celery but taste very different.
For my book, Catherine's Italian Kitchen, I wanted to highlight the many interesting ways Irish vegetables can be cooked, such as broccoli sautéed with a warm balsamic dressing, potato and tomato bake, which is delicious. I also chose to include some greens that we often see in the local shops and slightly puzzle us – vegetables such as chicory and fennel.
This recipe is perfect not only as a side, but also as a starter when served with a cream sauce or a gorgonzola sauce. When asparagus is out of season, substitute green beans.
24 asparagus spears
4 slices parma ham
20g butter, melted
40g freshly grated parmesan cheese
3tbsp breadcrumbs
2 tsp chopped parsley
Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas 4. Grease an ovenproof dish or baking tray.
Trim and clean the asparagus (see tip below). Cook in simmering water for about three to four minutes, until just al dente, then drain and allow to cool.
Take six asparagus spears and wrap them in a slice of parma ham. Repeat with the remaining spears. Lay all the spears in the ovenproof dish or baking tray.
Pour over the melted butter and sprinkle with the parmesan, breadcrumbs and parsley. Bake for five to 10 minutes, until golden brown.
To prepare asparagus, snap off the woody part at the base of the stem. For perfect presentation, trim the snapped end and, using a vegetable peeler, shape to a point to match the top.
Fennel is a surprisingly versatile vegetable. It can be shaved into thin slices in a salad, roasted, baked, used in risotti and as a base for sauces. At a spring Sunday lunch in the Fulvio household in Palermo, fennel, in season at this time, is the vegetable to follow the meat course. Fennel bulbs are passed around the table and we pull off a layer and munch – no dressing, no seasoning, just simple fennel with its distinct aniseed flavour to cleanse the palate.
3 large or 4 medium fennel bulbs
Zest of 1 lemon
Juice of ½ lemon
100ml extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 black or green olives
Preheat the oven to 200°C, gas 6.
Trim the fennel and cut away any bruised parts. Keep the fronds for garnish later. Cut off the fibrous tops, halve the bulbs lengthways and cut out the core. Cut larger bulbs into quarters. Place the fennel halves or quarters in a baking dish, cut side up.
Mix the lemon zest and juice with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Pour the lemon and olive oil mixture over the fennel and bake in the oven for 15 minutes.
Turn the fennel, add the olives and bake for a further 15 minutes. Turn once more and bake for a final 15 minutes, until tender. Serve sprinkled with the fennel fronds.
Steamed broccoli can be so plain and, dare I say, even boring. The hot balsamic dressing lifts this dish. Romanesco is a lovely sweet-tasting broccoli that resembles half cauliflower, half broccoli. Replace the broccoli with asparagus as an alternative.
1kg tender stem broccoli or regular broccoli, romanesco or sicilian purple
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
If using the tender stem broccoli, simply steam or blanch the broccoli for three to five minutes until al dente. With regular broccoli, first cut the broccoli into florets and peel and slice the remaining stem before steaming for four to six minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pan. Add the garlic, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper and sauté lightly for two to three minutes. Pour this sauce over the broccoli to serve.
Try adding two or three mashed anchovy fillets or a chopped red chilli when you add the vinegar.
Invented in Venice, tiramisù means 'pick me up'. The original recipe is made with espresso and Marsala, but my own delicious twist uses raspberries and orange. It's equally tasty made with strawberries.
300g raspberry jam
75ml plus 4 tbsp Marsala or sherry
150ml orange juice
475g mascarpone, at room temperature
375ml chilled whipping cream
60g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
50 (approx) savoiardi biscuits
600g raspberries, divided
Whisk the jam, 75ml Marsala and the orange juice together. Set aside.
Place the mascarpone cheese and two tbsp Marsala in a large bowl. Fold just to blend and set aside.
Beat the cream, sugar, vanilla and the remaining two tbsp Marsala in another large bowl until soft peaks form.
Stir a quarter of the whipped cream mixture into the mascarpone mixture to loosen it, then gently fold in the remaining whipped cream.
Spread some of the jam mixture in the bottom of a 32cm x 22cm x 12cm serving dish (or you can use individual glasses).
Arrange enough savoiardi over the jam mixture to cover the bottom of the dish.
Spoon more of the jam mixture over the savoiardi, then spread some of the mascarpone mixture over. Arrange some raspberries over the mascarpone mixture.
Repeat the layering with the remaining savoiardi, jam mixture, mascarpone mixture and raspberries.
Cover with clingfilm and chill for at least eight hours or overnight.
Arrange any leftover raspberries over the tiramisù and serve.
If possible, it's best to prepare this a day ahead so all the elements can meld and the savoiardi can soften fully. Ladyfingers can be used instead of savoiardi, but they are less effective in soaking up the lovely juices.
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