It's possible that you could have a bad time in Las Vegas. But you would have to be trying extremely hard. More so than any other city on earth, the dedication here to the pursuit of good times is hard core. In terms of hedonism, Las Vegas just doesn't quit, which is why over 39 million people visit it each year, and it remained the top US destination in 2009. They come for the gambling obviously, and they come for the shows. They come to get married but they also come to play golf, attend conventions, eat at Michelin-starred restaurants and check into some of the most lavish hotels on the planet. They also come for the incredible deals – the downturn has pushed hotel rates right down by 23%; return flights can be had for as little as €500 and the exchange rate (€1 is approximately $1.30) make it a great bet for Irish holidaymakers.

While the gambling aspect is unavoidable, it's a misconception that you have to enjoy a flutter to holiday in Vegas. There's definitely something hypnotic about the sound of the slot machines, the lure of free drinks, and the lack of any daytime light.

And although it would be a pity not to indulge in a little blackjack even once, the tourist authorities are currently trying to push other aspects of the Vegas experience.

Central to this reinvention is City Center, which was unveiled last year. This vast complex in what was formerly a run-down part of town was transformed by eight of the world's most important architects, including Daniel Libeskind and cost $11bn, making it the largest privately financed development in the history of the US.

It's a jaw-dropping collection of five-star hotels such as the Mandarin Oriental, high-end shops such as Louis Vuitton and chi chi restaurants such as Eva Longoria-Parker's Beso.

Impressive as it is, for many visitors it still can't compete with the gaudy brilliance of the original Strip in all its neon glory and just walking down it is one of the greatest forms of entertainment you'll find in Las Vegas.

While it can't be denied that the city has its tawdry aspects, spectacles like the dancing fountain outside the Bellagio hotel and the grandiosity of Caesar's Palace compensate for the vulgarity.

A tour of the Strip hotels is a must to experience iconic hotels like Paris Las Vegas, with its own Eiffel Tower, New York New York with its Statue of Liberty, and Treasure Island, which has a pyrotechnic pirate ship battle, Sirens of TI.

And whatever your martial status, visiting the wedding chapels can be a lot of fun, even if you're not planning on getting married here. Elvis impersonators abound, and options range from a walk-through wedding (even quicker and cheaper than a drive-through one) to vampire-themed nuptials and of course all-out traditional ceremonies. Some of Vegas' lesser-known attractions are the quirky museums. There are ones devoted to neon (neonmuseum.org) as well as to atomic testing (atomictestingmuseum.org).

One of the city's greatest draws is its food. It's not just all about the buffet and some of world's most celebrated chefs have established a presence here, including Guy Savoy, Wolfgang Puck, Mario Batali and Joel Robuchon. Eating at these restaurants is not exactly cheap (at Joel Robouchon's three-starred Michelin restaurant in the MGG Grand, which is said to be best in the city, a dinner for two minus drinks will cost in the region of $1,000) but it's entirely possible to eat well at a reasonable price, and the range of ethnicities is staggering.

If you can afford to splurge, check out Alain Ducasse's Mix restaurant at the Mandalay Bay hotel. The French chef serves up contemporary French and American dishes here – think roasted Maine lobster 'au curry' with coconut basmati rice – and the décor, all sweeping staircases and a 24-foot chandelier of 15,000 hand-blown glass spheres – is as interesting as the food. An average meal here will set you back $90.

Provided that you haven't blown all your money in the casinos, the shopping in Vegas is excellent, whatever your budget. Outlets abound, but as with everything in Vegas, you never have to venture too far from the Strip to find what you're looking for. Try the Palazzo, the Forum Shops at Caesar's Palace and the Grand Canal Shoppes at the Venetian (yes, it even has gondolas) for everything from Apple stores to Dolce e Gabbbana and Urban Outfitters. And if you're in need of a little R'n'R post-gambling/partying/shopping, you're in the right city. In keeping with the general theme of self-indulgence, the city is one of the top spa destination resorts in the States, and the spas are just as opulent and extravagant as the hotels themselves. Highly recommended is The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, which has been designed to evoke 1930s' Shangai and the Spa at Encore, which is the latest creation from the Bellagio's Steve Wynn, an intimate and beautiful space.

It's hard to call time out on a night in Las Vegas because everything is geared towards keeping you staying up as late and spending more money for as long as they can entice you. The shows are an essential part of the city and the latest Cirque du Soleil extravaganza is about as Vegas as it gets. Resident in the new Arai Hotel in City Center, the Viva Elvis show is a typically amazing celebration of the King's music, with dance and acrobatics.

As incredible as Las Vegas is, there comes a point when it feels like sensory overload. This is the time to book a helicopter trip and fly out over the Hoover Dam to the Grand Canyon. It's a three-hour round trip with Papillon (www.papillon.com) and costs around €200. You'll stop for a champagne lunch on top of the Canyon and witness some truly breathtaking scenery. It's only as you look out over the desert that you'll remember that until 1931, Las Vegas was a sleepy little town until the legalisation of gambling changed it forever. But once you're back on the Strip, it's impossible to think that Las Vegas has ever been anything other than it is now: brash, glitzy, over-the-top and utterly addictive.

Essentials

Getting there: British Airways flies from Dublin/Cork or Shannon via Heathrow to Las Vegas. Return flights start from €519, including all taxes, charges and fees.

For more information about visiting Las Vegas, see www.visitlasvegas.com, the official tourist website

For a guide to Las Vegas hotels visit www.vegas.com/resorts

Hit list: five suite places

Aria

Part of the new City Center complex, this is a contemporary hotel with lots of modern art and water features and some 4004 rooms and a lively nightclub.

3730 Las Vegas Boulevard South, www.arialasvegas.com

TheHotel

Part of but separate to the Mandalay Bay, this is an elegant hotel with a boutique feeling and stunning suites, all with flatscreen TVs and deep tubs.

3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South, www.thehotelatmandalaybay.com

Caesars Palace

Made even more famous than it already was by The Hangover, Caesars is the epitome of lavish Vegas excess. With an amazing selection of shops and restaurants, check in here and you may never leave the hotel for the duration of your stay.

3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South, www.caesars.com

Mandalay Bay

Not quite as opulent as some of neighbours, Mandalay Bay's biggest selling point is its water park with a wave pool, lazy river beach, open-air casino and swimming pools, Vegas's best.

3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S. www.mandalaybay.com

Red Rock Resort

Situated 10 miles from the Strip, loved by celebs and with great canyon views, this is a luxury resort, perfect for when you'd rather not be right in the middle of Vegas craziness.

11011 West Charleston Rd, www.redrocklasvegas.com