The guy with the dyed orange hair and Union Jack shades stood outside King Billy's Park on the Lisburn Road, waving his beer bottle in the air. 'F**k the IRA!' he shouted as the Orangemen marched by. 'F**k all Fenians!' yelled his friend.
Another young man was draped in a red, white and blue flag. 'Rule Britannia, Britannia rule the waves. Britons never, never, never shall be slaves!' was emblazoned across it.
The Orange Order and their supporters don't rule anything in the North nowadays, but for a few hours every 12 July, they take over the streets of Belfast city centre, and they certainly make the most of it.
Around 250 Orange lodges and their bands departed from Carlisle Circus at 10am yesterday for the four-hour journey to 'the Field' in Edenderry. It was perfect marching weather: dry with a gentle breeze.
The older Orangemen were immaculate in their Sunday best. They carried carefully folded umbrellas or unsheathed swords with military-like precision. Some sported carnations in their bowler hats. The younger ones were unkempt. Sashes were stretched untidily over ill-fitting suits.
Still, they were having a grand time, especially the heavily ear-ringed and tattooed bandsmen. Shankill Star band swaggered up the road full of machismo. 'In memory of Brian Robinson' was splashed across its enormous drum. Robinson was a well-known UVF killer.
It wasn't the only sign of paramilitarism. Scores of teenagers carried the flag of the Ulster Young Militants, the UDA's youth wing. At Bradbury Place, three mini-skirted blonde women – all with bottles of beer in one hand, cigarettes in the other – sashayed onto the road as bands which they particularly liked passed.
They were perplexed as the 'Upper Falls Protestant Boys' marched by. "I thought there were only Taigs up there," one said. Several pitbulls were bedecked in red, white, and blue. For many, the Twelfth was just a family day out. People shouted to marchers they knew. "Billy, Billy, Happy Twelfth!" yelled a woman in a Union Jack sombrero with a tin whistle around her neck.
Youngsters waved plastic Union Jacks and squealed in delight at the blood-and-thunder bands. Families shared flasks of tea, and ham and cheese sandwiches. An elderly man in a wheelchair – a tartan blanket draped over his knees – watched the parade from Elmwood Avenue.
"I only make it out of the house once a year. My daughter drives me here. I wouldn't miss it for the world," he said.
The Orangemen's lush, ornate banners carried scenes of a bygone era: the battle of the Somme, Mountbatten of Burma, Queen Victoria, Martin Luther, Moses and the tablets of stone. 'Prepare to meet thy God' and 'the wages of sin is death', other banners declared. Nobody paid much notice. Despite the Order's stated commitment to temperance, alcohol was everywhere.
In Shaftesbury Square, almost everyone was drunk or getting there. It was only 11.30am. Men downed bottles of cider and Buckfast. Women balanced plastic cups of vodka and coke in the drinks' holders of prams. Children sat on boxes of Harp. This year, we were told there'd be a clamp-down on street drinking.
Belfast City Council officials, police officers standing beside them, handed out leaflets telling people it was an offence to drink in public places and there could be a £500 fine. Hundreds of people all around them were drinking. No action was taken. "It's a difficult situation," one official said.
Outside the Northern Bank, a police officer chatted to a man who held a Tennant's can in his hand. Many streets were awash with litter, vomit and urine.
Stalls selling loyalist paraphernalia did a roaring trade. The most popular item was a T-shirt declaring 10 reasons why it was better to be a Protestant than a Catholic. 'We can count without a rosary'; 'we weren't all born with orange hair and freckles'; 'we don't have 10 screaming kids'; 'we're not told what to do by some doddery old lech in Rome'; and 'it's safer to bend over in a church than in a chapel' were some.
The Eleventh night, on which dozens of bonfires were lit across the North, saw sporadic violence from nationalist and loyalist youths. Police officers were injured in Portadown and Belfast as they were attacked with paint, petrol bombs, stones and fireworks. Fire-fighters dealt with 49 incidents at bonfires and came under attack in Co Antrim and Co Derry.
An Ireland football shirt, the Tricolour, the Starry Plough, and an INLA sign topped a 40ft bonfire near an entrance to the City Hospital on the Donegall Road. At one point, a drunken crowd blocked the road. Ambulances would have found it impossible to pass.
The bonfire teetered on the brink of collapse. At five to midnight, it tumbled down, the flames dancing wildly to massive cheers. In nearby Roden Street, hundreds gathered at another bonfire. A band belted out 'Sash' and youths roared sectarian songs aimed at Catholics across the motorway.
At 1 am on Sandy Row, beer was being openly sold from makeshift stalls in full view of police. At the bonfire on Annadale embankment, rave music blasted. A young man stepped out of the crowd and picked up a discarded piece of wood. He posed against the bonfire as though holding a rifle. Just another glorious Twelfth in Northern Ireland.
Those who believe in evolution, will be pleased to see living proof of their theory. The Orangemen of the north of Ireland are now just reaching the Neanderthal stage.
What an example this so called strong belief in God ignorant un-schooled asses set yesterday across NI. From my observations as a frequent visitor to NI over the past 40 years I see the Catholic minority having headed out to university to better themselves. On the other side of the street we see the ignorant school dropouts cheering on their bigoted friends yesterday.
I watched the parade - it was sober, orderly, colourful and great fun. Like any carnival anywhere in the world that can attract 500,000 plus there was revelry and for some - excess.
'Same as Dublin on St. patricks Day then!'
not quite, everyones welcome to St Paddies.
It seems that all the hype about making the 12th 'family-friendly' was just that - hype. Not having gone away for the weekend this year I thought I would got to the end of the road to have a look but it was soon clear that the 'blue bag brigade' were there as usual. Many were already drunk at 11.30 - plenty more were knocking back beer and Buckfast, which was very popular among the crowd. Bottles and rubbish were just thrown on the ground. The drunkeneness and lairy attitude of many made for an uncomfortable and unwelcoming atmosphere as did the random shouts ' F... the Pope', 'Provo Scum' and 'Come on the Blues'.
I saw no one enforcing drink or behaviour rules.
I retreated home very quickly, I'll be heading to Donegal, at least, next 12th.
quite a different take on things compared to the BBC, UTV and other media coverage - might I suggest folks visit http://www.orange-order.co.uk for various video clips . The unsavoury comments I note were not from members of the Orange Order but from drunken spectators - note the PSNI was actively enforcing the no drinking in public bylaws according to the BBC news coverage, indeed I witnessed it myself in Maghera with teenagers carry outs being confiscated.
It will be great when 'Orangefest' arrives. The world can see what decent people have to put up with for most of the year in NI.
Aren't the BNP supposed to be involved with orange parades now?
I had a great day in Belfast. Yes there were at lot of people drinking and probably drinking more than what would be good for them. But it was no different to the St Pats day, too much drink available.
The young people seem to be the problem, let's take the drink off them.
'No different to St. Pat's Day.'
Differences (what doesn't happen on St Patrick's Day)
1. No one sells- nor purchases- '10 good reasons to be a protestant instead of a catholic shirts.'
2. There are no militant republican emblems/ symbols nor killed Volunteers remembered as part of St. Patrick's Day parades.
3. Nobody lights bonfires on 16 March with the Union Jack, northern Ireland football shirts and pictures of unionist politicians aloft it.
4. (In my experience) no one engages in crude sectarian chanting- neither onlookers nor participating bands.
Ah but sure it's the young people, Alan, isn't it....
"Orange streets awash with booze and vomit"
Better than blood, I suppose.
Yes , no doubt the Belfast prod underclass got drunk and were out of order . However , the parade itself did not have everybody drunk and in the rural parades , there was no "blue bag " brigade.
Agree with Norman here. This is typical of the Belfast parade, however, if you go to one of the parades in a smaller town there is much less alcohol involved.
As for the '10 good reasons to be a protestant instead of a catholic shirts' - I thought the quotes mentioned were actually quite funny - lighten up for God's sake!
In large crowd situations it would have been madness for police to try and remove the alcohol from those drinking in public - this is an issue of communication, education and the learning of lessons for following years. (It's interesting to note that for all the reported drinking in public there were very few actual incidents or disturbances as a result.) Likewise, if all sectarian chants were made across a motorway, I'd be very happy!
And another thing - what's wrong with mini-skirted blondes sashaying to the sound of music? - if a man had said that.....!
"As for the '10 good reasons to be a protestant instead of a catholic shirts' - I thought the quotes mentioned were actually quite funny - lighten up for God's sake!"
Ignorance must be a grand thing. It's easy to say 'lighten up' without taking into account what this kind of pitting Catholic against Protestant means and has meant for so many years in the North. Let's not forget that it was a group of Orangemen that created the division we have now in Ireland, it was an Orange government in the North that enforced the systematic discrimination that led to the civil rights movement and troubles, and it is the Orange Order that still promotes bigotry and sectarianism no matter what kind of spin they put on themselves. The 11th night bonfires burning fenian flags/flags with Kill All Taigs, orange men climbing the peace gates to shout sectarian chants at their nationalist neighbours...
It is an organisation where you cannot marry or attend church with a Catholic, but it's okay to kill/try to kill one - ie. members such as Eddie McIlwaine one of the UVF Shankill butchers, commemorations for UVF members such as Brian Robinson, flute bands dedicated to Noel Kinner,standing side by side with Billy Wright at Drumcree, members in Liverpool jailed for UVF membership and weapons, in Fife, in Glasgow loyalist paraphernalia was found in a school belonging to a loyalist flute band- the list goes on. If it was just harmless joking it would be fine, but the Orange Order advocates real hatred and has real blood on its hands and should never be taken lightly.
I live near Aughrim, Ballinasloe, the battleground of which they celebrate on July 12th, strange to think of a group of "enlightened" people "celebrating" the death of 7000 people... takes all kinds I guess....
next year the kkk will be invited if they can show that they can measure up to the OO
Christina, Well said. like most southern members of the the church of Ireland I find the order to be an absolute embarassment. I think that southern nationalists are far too kind in an attempt to not cause offence from time to time but taking it easy on the O.O. is like finding nice things to say about apartheid.
Spoke to a German friend who travelled to Belfast for OrangeFest. He went as a genuine tourist. He said it was worryingly similar to the Nazi's, although lacked their discipline.
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Nice to see the orangemen supporting Buckfast Abbey!