Overall, the atmosphere was surprisingly warm-hearted. A waiter at a restaurant close to Plaza de Mayo greeted us with friendly handshakes and shared compliments about Jude Bellingham. On the metro ride back from the fan zone, the enthusiasm was palpable, with children donning Lionel Messi shirts singing, “Tell them you’re Scottish,”—a testament to their disbelief at their team reaching another World Cup final.
As an English observer amidst a city overflowing with sky blue and white, the experience felt uniquely special. Covering England’s rugby union tour, I’ve been fortunate to witness numerous iconic sporting events, but being in Buenos Aires after Argentina’s victory over England in football ranks among the most memorable.
From train operators joyously honking their horns at every underground stop to people dancing in the streets and elderly ladies waving flags from high balconies, the jubilance made even a high-stakes cricket World Cup match between India and Pakistan seem like a casual gathering. “El Que No Salta Es Un Inglés” my Argentinian friend suggested, concerned for our safety in the event of an English win. Fortunately, that precaution turned out to be unnecessary.
For a time, the outcome was uncertain. Picture a quiet library in a remote village in Tierra del Fuego; it wouldn’t compare to the stunned silence that accompanied Anthony Gordon’s goal giving England a 1-0 lead. Forty years after Diego Maradona’s famed Hand of God, Gordon’s Foot threatened to create a moment equally legendary. For a brief period, it felt as if the very spirit had been drained from Buenos Aires.
But alas, we know how the match concluded. Ignoring the fan zone announcer’s foolish remarks about the “Anyone who doesn’t jump is an Englishman” and someone setting fire to a makeshift St George’s flag amidst the celebrations, the key takeaway remains the country’s fervent passion for football. Vehicles adorned with national flags, billboards featuring Messi’s image—Argentina’s football obsession is unmatched, even compared to Mexico and Brazil.
Anticipation builds for the final on Sunday. Four years ago, when Argentina claimed the World Cup, around four million people flooded the capital’s streets. The congestion was so severe that a planned open-top bus parade had to be scrapped; instead, the players were flown over the city in helicopters. When I inquired about the length of the public festivities, a local dryly responded, “They’re still going on.”
Defeating England always brings an added thrill. Upon our arrival from the airport, our parka-clad taxi driver made playful ‘Hand of God’ gestures upon discovering our nationality. The humor was slightly diminished by the fact that he was speeding down a busy dual carriageway at 90 mph.
After ensuring we paid an exorbitantly inflated fare due to his meter being “out of order,” he rolled down his window to yell, “Campeones, Argentina!” as he drove away. For many, outsmarting Los Ingleses retains its allure.
Fortunately, some are eager to distance the football match from the 1982 Falklands crisis. On the eve of the game, Argentinian war veterans issued a statement urging politicians not to exploit the semi-final for their own agendas concerning sovereignty over the islands, instead calling on fans to remember the Argentinian soldiers who lost their lives during the conflict.
Nonetheless, the chant “El Que No Salta Es Un Inglés” – “Anyone who doesn’t jump is an Englishman” – remains a popular choice among locals. Interestingly, the recent passing of Bonnie Tyler also made news, as her hit song, It’s a Heartache, serves as the tune for another beloved terrace chant, the lyrics of which are best left unspoken.
Now, the responsibility falls on Messi and his teammates to complete the mission. With a population of approximately 46 million—16 million residing in the Buenos Aires metropolitan area—should Argentina triumph over Spain, the scenes at the Obelisk, a traditional gathering spot for victory celebrations, will be nothing short of extraordinary.
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