The atmosphere in Mexico City last Thursday evening was jubilant following a 2-0 victory over South Africa in the World Cup opener. Crowds gathered around the Angel of Independence, as Calle Río Sena overflowed with the distinctive scents of urine and spilled beer, which often accompany large celebrations. Meanwhile, the bustling Insurgentes roundabout, which had hosted a Beatles tribute concert just the night before, was filled with fans in green jerseys. However, amid the revelry, an underlying sense of something lacking was palpable.
In the upscale Roma Norte district, located about an hour north of Azteca Stadium, it was striking how many of the jerseys appeared brand new. A notable portion of attendees were Mexicans residing in the United States. Throughout the early days of the tournament, a recurring theme has emerged: local fans attending Liga MX matches have faced prohibitive ticket prices. Just minutes away from the stadium, in a modest bar off Avenida del Imán, where a teenager grilled burritos on a hot plate and tables were made from upturned barrels, a more mixed mood prevailed. Couples danced in the streets outside, and a sense of relief permeated the air. After a disappointing group-stage exit in 2022, Mexico can now feel more confident about advancing to the last 32, especially with Raúl Jiménez scoring his first World Cup goal in his fourth appearance. Yet, two main complaints lingered.
Firstly, many felt the event was overly dominated by Mexican culture. For a World Cup, the global representation was surprisingly minimal. The scarcity of yellow shirts in the stadium was noticeable, likely due to the steep ticket prices; one South African family living in the US reported spending $1,000 each for theirs. Numerous Mexicans have expressed a desire to have hosted teams like Scotland or the Netherlands, hoping for a richer mix of fan cultures that epitomizes the World Cup spirit. Colombia’s arrival in Mexico City, with their fans gearing up for the match against Uzbekistan, has begun to inject some of that diversity into the atmosphere.
Looking ahead, hope is high for the match on Thursday night in Guadalajara, where Mexico will face South Korea. The relationship between fans of both nations has flourished since the 2018 World Cup, when South Korea’s unexpected 2-0 triumph over Germany allowed Mexico to progress to the knockout stage. Celebrations in Mexico City saw South Korea’s ambassador being hoisted on shoulders as local supporters sang, “¡Coreano, hermano, ya eres mexicano!” – “Korean, brother, you are Mexican now!” This chant has made a comeback in Guadalajara, where South Korea defeated Czechia 2-1 in their opener. Korean fans were warmly welcomed at a wrestling event, with the arena DJ playing Gangnam Style to celebrate their presence, and social media has been inundated with videos of locals and Koreans dancing together to PSY’s iconic song.
However, concerns linger regarding Mexico’s performance on the field. Their initial control against a surprisingly passive South Africa might have led to inflated expectations, as booing could be heard from sections of the stands during the 17 minutes following Sphephelo Sithole’s red card, up to the second goal. Although not universal, this discontent stemmed from a longer-term frustration with coach Javier Aguirre’s perceived conservative tactics.
With captain César Montes suspended due to his late red card in the first match, Aguirre will have to make at least one change. Edson Álvarez, who spent last season on loan at Fenerbahce from West Ham, is expected to step in at the center of defense. Additionally, Jorge Sánchez is likely to replace Israel Reyes at right-back, and 17-year-old Gil Mora, who debuted against South Africa, may take over from Brian Gutiérrez in midfield.
A final training session in Mexico City, conducted on grass chosen by Aguirre to mimic the turf in Guadalajara, was disrupted by a storm, causing delays in the team’s departure for their next match. About a dozen fans gathered to send them off, including María Isabel Castro, who held a handmade sign reading.
“Effort and courage, always forward, may God always watch over and protect you.”
She criticized the team for not being sufficiently bold against South Africa, expressing frustration over Aguirre’s decision to conduct closed training sessions, which she felt excluded fans who couldn’t afford tickets.
Much of the lead-up to the opening match was overshadowed by protests from various sectors of society, including educators and families of Mexico’s 134,000 missing persons, along with concerns about potential disruptions. However, the anticipation for the second game has shifted towards the celebratory atmosphere expected in Guadalajara. With remote work mandated and schools closed in both Mexico City and Guadalajara, it seems that for many, last Thursday was merely a warm-up, with the real World Cup festivities set to begin this Thursday.
